Oven and hob on same 13amp

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Hello, I've just had my entire kitchen redone. I laid out a map of where appliances would go, but this wasn't followed. So now I have the following situation:

The electrician has advised me that rather than chase the correct cable for the oven from the other side of the kitchen, I can plug the oven and hob into a 13amp plug socket. He told me to check if the wires got warm and if it would trip the fuse. He was pretty open that this wouldn't pass building regs, but that there's nothing inherently dangerous in doing this.

Can I ask the advice of this forum on what I'm letting myself in for?
Many thanks.
 
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Tell him to go and do one, don't pay him and report him to his scheme admin, (though doubt he is a member of any scheme).

Usually cookers have to be on their own dedicated circuit with 30amp fuse/mcb.
As I am not an electrician I'm sure someone will be along to advise you accordingly but DO NOT plug it in via a 13a plug.
 
I laid out a map of where appliances would go, but this wasn't followed.
I hope you have not paid however was responsible! So now
I have the following situation:
The electrician has advised me that rather than chase the correct cable for the oven from the other side of the kitchen, I can plug the oven and hob into a 13amp plug socket.
Are these appliance gas or electric, if electric do you know the output of these?
He told me to check if the wires got warm and if it would trip the fuse.
That's a little scary and does not sound like the sort of information you would get off of a bona-fide sparks!
He was pretty open that this wouldn't pass building regs, but that there's nothing inherently dangerous in doing this.
What part of the building regulations did he say it would not pass and why?
The point of having a circuit powering appliances, is so that it functionally and safely works, the guy is obviously not an electrician of any great standing, what possessed you to use this man. Is he registered?
Can I ask the advice of this forum on what I'm letting myself in for?
Cold dinners!
 
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Are these appliance gas or electric, if electric do you know the output of these?
Here are the manuals, I'm afraid I'm not well up on electrics.
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/c...4187_C_Top_MID]_C61RAAST_XEU-00031A-01_EN.pdf
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/201106/20110620170706673/DG68-00382B_EN.pdf
What part of the building regulations did he say it would not pass and why?
Basically it was 'not the done thing' but it wasn't dangerous, it just may overload.
 
If your plans were correct get him back and install a proper cooker circuit or get someone else and deduct cost from the first.
 
They both require hardwiring and are not suitable for plug and socket arrangement.
When you decided on revamping the kitchen what did you ask for and what decisions were made with regards to the electrical installation?

This is simply not good enough, if the installer was aware of the types of load and demand you required, then a suitable circuit should have been installed.

You did inform the electrician of this did you?
Or is this something that was overlooked and the purchase of appliances were made after completion of kitchen and scapegoat is required?
 
Or is this something that was overlooked and the purchase of appliances were made after completion of kitchen and scapegoat is required?
Appliances were purchased afterwards. In terms of plans all I said was that an electric oven and hob would be installed in a certain position. Not looking for scapegoats, just want to know if I'm going to burn my house down.
 
Appliances were purchased afterwards. In terms of plans all I said was that an electric oven and hob would be installed in a certain position. Not looking for scapegoats, just want to know if I'm going to burn my house down.

Possibly!
I came across a similar situation when a fused connection was used on an appliance which demanded more than the connection could supply, that set on fire, I have pictures somewhere of it!
I would be looking for a correctly designed circuit to be installed, or return appliances, get an oven rated at less than 2kW and have gas installed for a gas hob!
 
Ok, that's good enough for me. Thanks very much for your help.
No problems, would be interested in which option you choose?

By the way electric hobs a seldom rated lower than 20A, which would be greater than a 13A socket and with an oven already planned for the circuit, then diversity would still have likely upped the demand past that of a standard 13A arrangement. The alleged electrician should know this sort of stuff, when I am doing kitchens I also put in a circuit in that can deal with 15kW of power, even if the client is going to have gas cooking appliance fitted!
 
It may not be as bad as things sound , Yes they both need dedicated supplies , But IF you have a void under the Floor , maybe Cables can be drawn into the Kitchen area from the Consumer Unit (a separate C/U may be required if no room in existing) The Plinths could be removed to bring the Cables into the Hob /Oven area , Then the Isolation Switches could be surface mounted in an adjacent Cabinet , Then again if you have solid Floors or no access , then it is a Problem , Your only other option then is to change the Appliances to a lower KW Rating Models , some Single Ovens can be fitted on a Plug top etc , Unsure about Hobs though.

Lucky
 

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