Creating a walk in shower ensuite bathroom from scratch

Joined
21 Feb 2014
Messages
267
Reaction score
12
Location
Lancashire
Country
United Kingdom
I've just bought a house and intend to turn the very small box room into an en suite. Im not sure if this is the best forum for this but hopefully I can get some advice.

the room as it is is plastered and thats it. Ill be installing pipe work for water and drains (not myself) but i do intend to do as much of the labouring as i can as i'm going to be on a very tight budget.

what I would like is a shower with no obvious tray just tiled floor that blends with the rest of the floor in the room, then maybe a glass side or glass doors.

the wooden floor in the room can be removed and replaced to facilitate the install. and the walls can be covered with whatever material required to get the best result / cost compromise. Its possible two of the walls will be stud walls anyway

What methods and materials should i be researching to get the best from this situation?

I'm assuming if i replace the floor i should be able to set some kind of shower drain into the cavity of the floor. I currently use a combi boiler but the bathroom might be a bit of a distance from it. I'm not sure if it will power the shower easily. If i do require some kind of power shower, is there a type that can be set into a stud wall instead of on the wall in the shower itself?

thanks
 
Sponsored Links
1st...is this room upstairs or downstairs...

Then look into joists thickness/span/spacing...

You will want to use a tray former to suit the size off the area...the former is fitted to the floor level...
Then tank floor an walls...

Then tiles fixed....

But you need to get floor an wall substrates sorted first...

Things to research ...

Cement based backer boards....
Waterproof matting systems ...
Flexiable cement based adhesive...
Flexiable cement based grout...or epoxy grout...

What type of tiles....will they need sealing ect...


Pipe runs for waste....ect
 
1st...is this room upstairs or downstairs...

Its an Upstairs room with two outside walls one to the side of the property and one to the front

Then look into joists thickness/span/spacing...

You will want to use a tray former to suit the size off the area...the former is fitted to the floor level...

ill google tray former as i dont know what one is

Then tank floor an walls...

would this still be required if you used a water proof base layer like the cement board you mentioned later

Then tiles fixed....

But you need to get floor an wall substrates sorted first...

Things to research ...

Cement based backer boards....
Waterproof matting systems ...
Flexiable cement based adhesive...
Flexiable cement based grout...or epoxy grout...

where would i use the water proof matting system?

also how is the cement board fixed to walls? will it fix to plaster or would i need a layer of plasterboard first. also can i screw it to studs or again should i fix plasterboard first. this seems like something i could do instead of paying a plumber to do it.

What type of tiles....will they need sealing ect...

i think i want a no slip tile floor and waterproof wall tiles. id like this to be practical and not require too much maintinance

Pipe runs for waste....ect

ill be able to drill holes and runs for pipes but ill probably leave all of the piping up to the plumber as its not something i know anything about

what surface would be best on the floor as a base for everything else?
 
Waterproof matting...
Durabase c1++...... Homelux.....shulter ditra/kerdi drain systems ...ect..

Formers....there are loads out there....tuff ect...
Are you wanting a traditional or linear former..

Again not wanting to sound to hard on you....

The floor substrate has to be in good condition joists ect....
As it's upstairs get the size of former you need for the area,get you grate/waste run sorted ect

You can overboard floor with 22/25mm wbp ply(sealed with sbr ect)..then matting...or backer boards then matting it's up stairs so belt an braces...

Since you have your walls plastered ur need to watch the weight off your tiles 32kg per metre inclusive addy/grout...

You will look to use waterproof matting on all walls and floor mate

Not being funny ere....but some of the jobs I have rectified/seen have been a total disaster ....so to more research mate
 
Sponsored Links
Sorry daughter took iPad for homework....lol

As it's not a big area have you thought about a safety flooring.....Altro flooring....they have a brilliant range...


I do a lot of wet rooms about 50%,I put done altro flooring really nice gear mate...cost wise it might be a little dearer than tiles..
 
no i appreciate the words of warning obviously I sound like i don't have a clue (which i don't) which no doubt is sounding alarm bells in your head!

but ill be doing plenty of watching, reading and asking before i do any buying or installing and even then ill probably be taking pictures and double checking.

so just a quick google pulls up something like this for the former, obviously the right size will be required.

http://www.plumbase.com/tprod162673/section2563/AKW-WET-FLOOR-TUFF-FORM-1000X1000-FORMER.html

to get the tiles level with the floor what would be the idea here?

would this sit on the joists or as i assume is more likely it would sit on say plywood that has been tanked.

what would be the best way to make sure the surfaces line up correctly?

also if the floor isnt quite level, what is the best way to level floor boards?

thanks for your patience.
 
Ok....the floor.....

First thing is the thickness off your former from min off 18mm up ok so if it's 22mm like that tuff one from akw(that's the one I mainly use)...

Then your flooring ie....wbp ply will be the same thickness 22mm

The former should sit ontop off joists supported underneath....

Then you will seal the underside and edges off the 22mm wbp ply and fix onto joists so former an ply all one level....making sure ply edges are supported...
Silicone seal between former an ply with good quality mastic/silicone...

Waterproof matting durabase c1++ for me....all over floor and same for walls just follow mfr instructions for fitting using flexiable addy with max 6mm notch...ect...
 
I just finished installing an Impey wet room former and all the associated tanking today. I used the Impey one for a couple of reasons - it looked the easiest to install for my limited experience and I got a great price from an eBay seller.

Here's the link to the installation video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIi-85IGzpQ#t=10

My bathroom had skimmed plaster walls, so I first prepared them by sanding them, priming, and tanking them using one of these kits:

http://www.wetrooms-online.com/Wetrooms-Online-Waterproofing-and-Drains-Tanking-Kits/invt/PCI-01

Then I installed the Impey former. I took up the floorboards and fitted dwangs between all the joists. I then replaced the floorboards, which were water-damaged, with 25mm WBP plywood, and left a gap for the shower tray former.

Then after the former was installed I fitted the Impey Waterguard kit.

It was pretty simple, and the Impey instructions were easy to follow.

I saved a lot of money by buying the shower tray former, the tanking kit, and the water guard kit from different suppliers!

Good luck with your project!
 
What kind of shower glass would you go for for one of these, i seem to have found ones that mount to the wall at the side, but i assumed they should attach to the floor? is this not the case to prevent leaking or am i looking at the wrong things?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top