Kitchen refurb help

Hi. Wondering if you guys can offer any advice on the situation we have in the kitchen please

Basically, the whole kitchen is being cleared out and re-done, plaster off, new units etc etc. Now at the moment there is a plug-in oven and a gas hob that exists but in the future, once the money situation is better, we would like to have an induction hob fitted.

We have run some 10mm cable from the board to a 45A Cooker Switch position in the kitchen but after that is where I am not 100% certain on how to proceed. The plan was to install a 10mm link to a blank face plate over a deep back-box and then use connector blocks to extend this to two fcu's to allow the current setup to be used.

I would then replace the fcu for the hob with an Appliance Outlet to allow me to connect the new hob, if and when we get it.

I want to be able to get all the cables installed and hidden behind the plasterboard so as to avoid the need for extra chasing being required when/if we get a new hob.

The problem I am having is getting hold of connector blocks that are rated for that sort of current carrying capacity.

Does anyone have any better examples of procedures for this sort of work or is the above acceptable if I can get the connector blocks ?

Thanks

I'm sure there will be many options !

Here are some of mine!

a) Fit a backbox to the side of the cooker. Put a socket on it for now, and when the time comes replace it with one of these: (dual outlet plate)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/45A-45-Am...al_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item338bcf695d

(they stick out)

b) Fit 2 backboxes, one for socket and one for outlet plate.

Could use 2 pieces of 6mm between the switch and back boxes, need to consider how you will manage with these big conductors and getting two in a terminal


I'm sure you don't want 13A FCU's. Bit silly after fitting 10mm cable.


How is the gas hob ignition currently connected? I assume it could remain as it currently is ?

Is the oven off the kitchen socket ring ?

AndyPRK said:

a) Fit a backbox to the side of the cooker. Put a socket on it for now ...

Click to expand...

Might that not be a struggle (and technically outside of the 'ratings' of the socket) with 10mm² cable?

Kind Regards, John

10mm² cable isn't/wasn't required.

Depends on the device rating and the load

Well, it would but -

45A switch.

Is it Ref Method C?

Or do we have another TLC misleadee?

EFLImpudence said:

10mm² cable isn't/wasn't required.

Click to expand...

Well, yes, most of know that, but ....

shaky1105 said:

We have run some 10mm cable from the board to a 45A Cooker Switch position in the kitchen ...

Click to expand...

Kind Regards, John

45A isolator to cooker outlet plate, take the plug tops off the appliances and connect them both to this. Protect the 10mm circuit with a 20A mcb at the consumer unit. When its time to upgrade the appliances, upgrade the mcb.

16A even

Thanks for all the replies guys. I know that 6mm in most cases would suffice but I thought that to future-proof the install as much as possible, I may as well run 10mm. I do like the idea of the 20A MCB at the CU up until the time when/if the induction hob is fitted, that never even crossed my mind to be honest.

I did originally think that I could simply fit a dual outlet plate as suggested but the terminals on the existing oven and the ignition cct for the gas hob are woefully undersized for 10mm to be terminated. As expected I suppose.

I forgot to mention that all the cables are clipped direct and will be directly under the dot/dab boards.

Thanks again