Smart circulators and the bypass

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Hi all

With these new so called smart circulators such as the Alpha2 in auto adapt mode what bypass are people fitting? Grunfos say not to use the auto pressure types, the regs say you can't use a lockshield and others say use the Taconova setter but looking for your thoughts.
 
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Generally you dont use it on auto adapt if an auto bypass is required. COnstant pressure mode is the best way if you need to set it up with an auto bypass.
 
Hi there

Thanks for the reply. The reason I opted for the Alpha2 is the auto adapt feature to reduce energy and improve the efficiency. There seems to be so many views on using these pumps, the only common theme seems to be don't use a pressure controlled auto bypass. The boiler an 18Ri Worcester runs the pump for three minutes to stop heat build up and so once both zone valves have closed it needs a bypass, my issue is really the 23 setter or just a lock shield valve or am I missing another option.
 
Assuming your talking about this?
http://www.hvac.vn/data/taconova/AV-23-SETTER-Inline.pdf

Don't see any benefit to using the above as a bypass over a standard gate valve, it's not what the above is for.

Up to you, either way you do it is technically wrong. A standard bypass (gatevalve) would stop the boiler over heating but will also continually let hot water move directly from flow to return when it should be going round the system (it show heating has been fitted for years, hardly noticable but technically not correct these days)

The only correct way, is an autobypass valve, and the pump set to a constant pressure mode (which is still a much reduced electrical drain compared to a normal "old style" pump) probably keep the boiler happyer as well as most dont like the constant changing in flow rates cause by "Auto adapting" pumps. This is how mine is plumbed in.
 
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Yes, it is worth keeping in mind that an Alpha2 on constant pressure setting 3 is using exactly half the power of an old 15-60 on setting 3 (45W vs. 90W).
 
Put a fixed valve, e.g a Taconova Setter in series with an ABV.

The ABV will ensure that flow through the bypass only occurs when necessary and the fixed valve ensures that the flow doesn't exceed the required rate.
 
Put a fixed valve, e.g a Taconova Setter in series with an ABV.

The ABV will ensure that flow through the bypass only occurs when necessary and the fixed valve ensures that the flow doesn't exceed the required rate.

or replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter and a fixed valve ;)
 
Put a fixed valve, e.g a Taconova Setter in series with an ABV.

The ABV will ensure that flow through the bypass only occurs when necessary and the fixed valve ensures that the flow doesn't exceed the required rate.

or replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter and a fixed valve ;)
How does that help?
3 port valve with a 2 port head. One part (A) going to heat rads/cylinder... The other (B) straight into the return. Not a bad idea really (expensive but effective).
 
Put a fixed valve, e.g a Taconova Setter in series with an ABV.

The ABV will ensure that flow through the bypass only occurs when necessary and the fixed valve ensures that the flow doesn't exceed the required rate.

or replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter and a fixed valve ;)
How does that help?

Well I was gonna say because valve one way open to zone valve other way open to bypass but...........
then I realised that when your talking about thermstatic valves shuting down......it wouldnt help at all

:oops:
I'll put the wine down and get me coat
 
Put a fixed valve, e.g a Taconova Setter in series with an ABV.

The ABV will ensure that flow through the bypass only occurs when necessary and the fixed valve ensures that the flow doesn't exceed the required rate.

or replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter and a fixed valve ;)
How does that help?
3 port valve with a 2 port head. One part (A) going to heat rads/cylinder... The other (B) straight into the return. Not a bad idea really (expensive but effective).

Thats not what he stated tho :mrgreen: He said to replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter

You would have to ADD a three port diverter before the two ports and do a little fiddling with the wiring probably (still wouldnt give protection against TRVs if all rads had them (I know they shouldnt))
 
Put a fixed valve, e.g a Taconova Setter in series with an ABV.

The ABV will ensure that flow through the bypass only occurs when necessary and the fixed valve ensures that the flow doesn't exceed the required rate.

or replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter and a fixed valve ;)
How does that help?
3 port valve with a 2 port head. One part (A) going to heat rads/cylinder... The other (B) straight into the return. Not a bad idea really (expensive but effective).

Thats not what he stated tho :mrgreen: He said to replace one of the two ports with a 3 port diverter

You would have to ADD a three port diverter before the two ports and do a little fiddling with the wiring probably (still wouldnt give protection against TRVs if all rads had them (I know they shouldnt))

no replacing one of the two ports with a three would do and with regards to trv's I'd say nothing is impossible ....you could always put the three port on the cylinder circuit for example
ps still on the wine so feel free to correct me :D
 
3 port on cyl circuit. HW demand ends. CH Still on. 3 Port Closes off to HW so there for opens to bypass. Water now bypassing from flow to return when heating on. No different to just the standard 2 ports Splan and a manual bypass now. Actually no benifit or difference to having the 3 port in that setup at all.

(i think :S)
 
3 port on cyl circuit. HW demand ends. CH Still on. 3 Port Closes off to HW so there for opens to bypass. Water now bypassing from flow to return when heating on. No different to just the standard 2 ports Splan and a manual bypass now. Actually no benifit or difference to having the 3 port in that setup at all.

(i think :S)

Yeah you're right ...... A rethink is in order
 
Hi all

Using a three port valve never occurred to me, but are we saying that you replace the three position head with a two position head? Just getting my head round this, you only now have two positions on the three port valve, no mid position. So without any power it would divert the flow through port B only which would be the bypass to the boiler return, when powered it would close port B and all the flow would go through port A and turn on the boiler via the orange wire. If you only had hot water on then this valve would be un powered and be bypassing all the time. What's your views and can someone explain this further.

thanks roy
 

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