Best method for lining existing walls for kitchen cabinets

Hi there,

We have an existing single skin brick extension that houses our kitchen.
Both the kitchen units and the roof are very tired and we are taking the opportunity to extend the extension when we replace the kitchen.
Amazingly the existing walls have NO insulation (built in the 80s) and due to the position of two existing openings we don't have the room to lose the width required to build a cavity. The existing walls are rendered externally and they appear in great condition, i.e. no cracks internally or externally.
Therefore, my proposal is to line the walls with Celotex and use frame fixings to fix timber battens on top of the Celotex and through to the brick wall. I've used this method before to convert my Dad's single skin garage into a studio and it worked fine.
My only concern is whether this wall build-up is going to take the weight of new kitchen wall cabinets, 900mm high ones at that. I propose to use the continuous strip hanging rails to spread the load but wonder whether I need to introduce a 150mm strip or full wall lining of ply over the timber battens in addition to the p/board.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

you don't need battens, with Cabinet Hanging Rail.

It is a continuous length. So you can fix it using plenty of screws, no need to put a screw in a place where there is a cable or pipe, and you can hang your cabinets along it wherever you want, and reposition them easily. As it is one piece you can make it level and all the cabs will be aligned. As you can put in plenty of screws it is very strong.

You can paint it to blend in with the wall, but it is well above eye level. Depending on supplier it will come in 3m or 2m lengths.

John D, thanks.

I was already planning to use the rails by Woodfit, but my concern is whether they will have enough to grip into with just the battens that are fixed through the insulation, or do I need to fix ply to the batten faces first to further spread the load?

I don't think so. It is not a spot loading, it is spread along the strip, so is better than using a penny washer or something behind each screw.

You do need to use substantial screws to resist bending under the downward load, say, a no. 10, and the screw and plug need to go well into the brick.

I used countersunk screws, and they went quite a way into the holes, so I added washers under the heads. I think round-headed screws would have been better.

I don't think you're understanding the proposed wall build-up tbh.

So,
Single skin brick wall
Celotex fitted to inside face
Battens placed on TOP of celotex and fixed through the celotex into the brick wall using long hammer frame fixings
P/board fixed to battens
Cabinet rails fixed through to battens and/or ply (this is the question)

The rail will not be able to fix into the brickwork is the point.

Ah

I would have used screw fixings through the rail, through the insulation, into the brick. Missing out the batten and the gap.

Whatever fixing is strong enough to hold a batten, is strong enough to hold the rail. So the batten doesn't add anything.

You can insulated plasterboard which has the pb bonded to the Kingspan/Celotex, so only one sheet to fix.

If you decide to use studwork, then yes, screw the rail to the studs. An alternative method is to fix sheet ply over the entire wall, under the pb, so you can screw things anywhere you want.

The problem is that a builder is lining out the walls for us whilst completing the rest of the extension.
I will then be fitting the kitchen, including the rails.
The issue is what will hold the insulated p/board to the walls until I come and put the rail up?
I'm also concerned as to the accuracy of fixing the hanging rail using the hammer fixings as they are a lot less accurate than fixing the rail into a batten/ply.

'mmm

very different to mine

Someone will be along with a better view, I'm sure.