Sensible way to switch extractor fan with shower switch??

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ah, you mean you have a noisy extractor fan.

@JohnD :oops: Erm... We don't currently have an extractor fan, just me going in after the OH to open the window ("It's too cold!")
But, it is on the to-do list (right after tiling and putting the shower back on the wall, but before sorting out the ceiling!)

@B-A-S
Is it an instant-heat electric shower, or a mixer one with a pump?
It's a not-all-that-instant heat electric shower!

Indeed not. But will she remember to turn it off?
True, but she has a habit of turning everything off after using it!


Come on guys, 1:30am and your still up! Don't you ever sleep! Lol!
 
A tidier alternative to an Isolator + 2x FCUs (would obviously have to be correctly placed re: the zones)

http://www.directtradesupplies.co.u...ectric-get-ultimate-3-gang-grid-plate--white-
http://www.directtradesupplies.co.u...-ultimate-grid-13a-fcu-module--painted-white-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/3211...3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

With some appropriate labelling, this would leave anyone doing maintenance in no in doubt about what device they are turning off and looks a lot less industrial. (I am prepared to be be shot down in flames about protecting the cable feeding this)
 
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A tidier alternative to an Isolator + 2x FCUs (would obviously have to be correctly placed re: the zones)
Indeed. I almost mentioned a grid setup as an alternative to three separate items.
(I am prepared to be be shot down in flames about protecting the cable feeding this)
Join the club! As I said to the OP, I am quite prepared, if necessary, to point people to the regs which allow downstream protection of reduced-CSA cables in a situation like this! The practical issue is in ensuring a good connection when one puts a small conductor (presumably 1mm² or 1.5mm²) into the same terminal as a 6mm² or 10mm² conductor.

Kind Regards, John
 
A tidier alternative to an Isolator + 2x FCUs (would obviously have to be correctly placed re: the zones)
@powersurge thanks for the tip! Aesthetics aren't really important as I was planning to put it all in the attic.
Also, wouldn't I need a three pole switch?

So before you do the tiling and put the shower back, won't you have access to the pipe supplying the shower?
@B-A-S, I should probably have said "finish the tiling". The pipework was buried in the wall by the previous owners, I've just tiled over the top!
 
@powersurge thanks for the tip! Aesthetics aren't really important as I was planning to put it all in the attic. Also, wouldn't I need a three pole switch?
Good point. I should have thought of that before endorsing his suggestion of using a grid setup! Maybe he was thinking of using two separate switches. That brings us back to the fact that both would have to be switched off to make the fan 'safe' - although I agree that, with suitable labelling and the switches sitting right next to one another, that might not be too major an issue. However, if it's all going to be in the attic, such that aesthetics are not much of an issue, then you'd probably find it easier with separate units (isolator and FCUs) than fiddling around wiring grid modules.

Kind Regards, John
 
Hi all,

Looking at the size of the pattress box that comes with the shower pull cord, it looks like I won't have any room for an additional cable or two.

So I'll have to use a junction box (or two), is this one ok to use Screwfix - Adaptable Box IP65 110 x 110 x 67mm?

It has 5 terminals, so I can stuff all my cables in one box!
Or would you recommend I use two, one for the supply side, and one for the load side?

If I can use just one junction box, is it ok to use a 3 core & earth to bring out what I need, or do I have to use two lots of 2 core & earth (obviously not connecting the second neutral!)?
 
All seems a bit overcomplicated what about a 12 volt fan wired off the light using a remote ELV humidity sensor mounted near the shower
 

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