Cooker switch OK to locate under worktop?

bazmdiy · 28 Dec 2014

Hi all - I have had electricians in to do most of the electrical work in an extension but as I am struggling with budgets I am doing the wiring for cooker and hood. I will get a qualified electrician to do final connections.

I feel confident about most of my routing but am worried about locating the cooker and hood switch under a worktop. They will still be visible and accessible when a unit door is opened. Can anybody reassure me that this is legit? I only have 400mm worktop to the left of the cooker - just enough for a single socket!

Many thanks.

Untitled

bazmdiy
28 Dec 2014
1

Spark123 · 28 Dec 2014

What about the other side?
They ideally need to be accessible without moving tins of beans etc.

eveares · 28 Dec 2014

As spark123 said, it's best if their easily accessible. Mine oven isolator is located behind a draw what has to be pulled out and removed to access what is not ideal, but where it was placed. (All floor to ceiling cupboards across whole wall.)

Also my grandparents ovens isolator is above their CU, what puzzles me as I thought they have to go within a certain distance of the oven?

Why don't you ask your electrician for his/her advice?

bazmdiy · 28 Dec 2014

Thanks spark123 and eveares - got the idea. The wall is actually an open old stud frame. I can get around the back and move the under worktop bits to there. Electrician away on hols spending my money!

Many thanks for advice.

flameport · 28 Dec 2014

There are plenty of cooker switches hidden away like that, but the proper place is above the worktop so it can be seen and accessed easily.

Pointless having the FCU for the extractor under the worktop.

Solution:

Untitled

flameport
28 Dec 2014
1

Adam_151 · 28 Dec 2014

Don't like it hidden away from from view. But according to a consultant I spoke to in November its ok because its for isolation and not emergency switching. Not sure what one is meant to do in the event of a chip pan fire then!

Personally, I think he had just given up arguing with architects and kitchen designers!

EFLImpudence · 28 Dec 2014

Adam_151 said:
But according to a consultant I spoke to in November its ok because its for isolation and not emergency switching.

That is completely the wrong way round.
They are not required for isolation so - if you consider one necessary for emergency switching, then, obviously, it should be readily accessible.

Not sure what one is meant to do in the event of a chip pan fire then!

Exactly.

ban-all-sheds · 28 Dec 2014

bazmdiy said:
Hi all - I have had electricians in to do most of the electrical work in an extension but as I am struggling with budgets I am doing the wiring for cooker and hood. I will get a qualified electrician to do final connections.

You must, must, must make sure your electrician is OK with this.

Which means he is the only one who can answer your questions and tell you what to do, which means that if he is on holiday you will have to wait - there is no alternative.

You cannot expect him to sign an EIC saying that he did the design if he didn't actually do it.

And then there's certification of Building Regulations compliance - when you applied for approval, what did you say, or allow to be said on your behalf, or by default tacitly accept, would be the way that you'd ensure the electrical work would comply with the Building Regulations? If you do something different to that, and as a result find you cannot get a Building Regulations completion certificate your current budget problems will seem like happy days.

OwainDIYer · 28 Dec 2014

You can't have a socket AND a FCU on a 'socket spur' if that's an unfused spur off a 32A ring final.

EFLImpudence · 28 Dec 2014

Supply the FCU from the cooker switch.

bazmdiy · 29 Dec 2014

I have looked at relocating switches to other side side of wall but it would be a massive upheaval.

Back to plan A but with all your suggestions (much appreciated). My only worry now is closeness of cooker switch/socket to hob. I have read that 300mm is the minimum allowed. Does anybody feel that they are too close? - they could go a little higher?

Since the electrician will do all the connecting up the worst that can happen is that he will redo it all

. Since he seems to spend much of his time hacking away at woodwork and plasterwork I just want to save some money!

Many thanks

Untitled

bazmdiy
29 Dec 2014
1

EFLImpudence · 29 Dec 2014

I would be alright with that; the 300mm. is only a recommendation.

To save all that chasing from the socket, do as I suggested and supply the FCU from the cooker switch.

bazmdiy · 29 Dec 2014

Thank you EFLImpudence - will do. The cooker hood has a couple of 40w bulbs and motor power is less than 200w so extra load should not add much load.

Many thanks for all replies

JohnD · 29 Dec 2014

you can run a cooker hood off a lighting circuit.

EFLImpudence · 29 Dec 2014

You can run a cooker hood off any circuit.

diynot

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

Cooker switch OK to locate under worktop?

Similar threads