Hi all
I think our 3 port value is defunct - just want to check I'm not missing anything.
I've been thinking that the heating is taking longer to warm the house up in the mornings, also SWMBO commented that the water was very hot. Made me suspicious that the valve was not going all the way to the CH/A position.
Electrically all measures correct 230V on the White wire from the room thermostat and 230V on the Grey from the cylinder stat (when water tank is hot - and I have turned the stat down to 50). Also last night I moved the Grey wire to the room stat with the White - so the valve should now be operating in CH only/HW only and no mid position (like a W plan but with priority to CH).
Not sure how well feeling the pipes works (as copper conducts so well) but I can't detect any temp difference on A and B sides of the valve - both very hot. More telling perhaps is the return pipes - the pipe coming out the bottom of the tank is very hot (you want to remove your hand after a couple of seconds), whereas the return feed from the heating is noticeably cooler (can hold for ages).
The manual lever moves the value to the same position it ends up in when driven by CH only. So I'm concluding that the value itself has failed an it letting water through to the HW circuit when in the motor is in CH position.
Any thoughts before I splash out £100.
Steve
I think our 3 port value is defunct - just want to check I'm not missing anything.
I've been thinking that the heating is taking longer to warm the house up in the mornings, also SWMBO commented that the water was very hot. Made me suspicious that the valve was not going all the way to the CH/A position.
Electrically all measures correct 230V on the White wire from the room thermostat and 230V on the Grey from the cylinder stat (when water tank is hot - and I have turned the stat down to 50). Also last night I moved the Grey wire to the room stat with the White - so the valve should now be operating in CH only/HW only and no mid position (like a W plan but with priority to CH).
Not sure how well feeling the pipes works (as copper conducts so well) but I can't detect any temp difference on A and B sides of the valve - both very hot. More telling perhaps is the return pipes - the pipe coming out the bottom of the tank is very hot (you want to remove your hand after a couple of seconds), whereas the return feed from the heating is noticeably cooler (can hold for ages).
The manual lever moves the value to the same position it ends up in when driven by CH only. So I'm concluding that the value itself has failed an it letting water through to the HW circuit when in the motor is in CH position.
Any thoughts before I splash out £100.
Steve