RSJ Support advice

Adrian86 · 7 Feb 2015

The property i am refurbishing has a long steel RSJ running above two large windows in the living room. I am slightly concerned that the RSJ does not seem to be particularly well supported.

See images.

The first image shows the RSJ. The second and third show the supports at either end

. I think this looks dodgy should i be concerned?

The house was built in 1970 and has not fallen down yet.

Cheers,
Adrian

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noseall · 7 Feb 2015

Don't sneeze.

Adrian86 · 7 Feb 2015

, Any advice apart from don't sneeze lol. I thought about supporting the RSJ with acro props and replacing the bricks at either end one at a time with engineering brick. at least then it will be sat on something flat and level.

There are bricks above the RSJ which form the internal wall up to the windowsill's on the upstairs level. it is a single skin of internal bricks that is supported. the external is a frame with weather boarding.

freddiemercurystwin · 7 Feb 2015

ACHOO

tony1851 · 7 Feb 2015

It's certainly something that would be a complete failure theoretically, but does go to show how high the factors of safety really are.
But the factors of safety are there to allow for unforseen loads, and/or defective materials. If you ever have a teenager's party upstairs, for example, you might have problems (structural ones).
It may have been like that for 40 years, but you really need to get it sorted - an engineering brick laid flat at each end would go a long way to help.

themiddleagedun · 8 Feb 2015

Good grief, how could anyone do such a botch? However as you say its been there for years, and taken no harm... Someone would say leave it as it is, and they may have a fair point, but for piece of mind, especially as the beam's exposed you may as well prop it and fit a padstone either side. No rush though.....

alfiembra · 11 Feb 2015

It's difficult to get a good tight fit under an existing beam soffit. I'd recommend using concrete paving slabs 50mm thick cut to size bedded on mortar and pack any gap to the underside of the beam with slate or instead of slate a dry pix mortar packed in tight.

Good luck

Alan

Adrian86 · 13 Feb 2015

Thanks for the replies.

My original intent was just to make the beam housing more sturdy because it seemed a bit flimsy. Never expected to find this however but i am glad that i know about it and can sort it out.

Cheers.

SilverSaloon · 23 Feb 2015

put acro props under the beam and remove one brick on one side and replace with a concrete padstone.

Once once side is done, repeat the other side.

leave it propped for about a month after to allow concrete to set

Adrian86 · 26 Feb 2015

Further investigation has uncovered another problem. The cinder block that the dodgy brick is sat on has begun to fracture due to the uneven load. This block it toothed into the side wall.

What can i do about this
1) replace the whole block,
2) reinforce it with concrete and rebar,
3) cut the block and replace half of it with something chunky cementing in and tying together

then Put a concrete Padstone/slab on top of the whole lot for the beam to sit on.

I know the best solution would be to replace the block but im not too confident about removing it since it is toothed into the side wall.

Thanks for all the Advice.

Adrian86 · 26 Feb 2015

P.S. Cinder block Sucks

Adrian86 · 7 Apr 2015

Ok so I ave got around to sorting the worst side out.

I have cemented in concrete padstones to replace the damaged cinder block and a cut down concrete paving slab in place of the dodgy split brick.

Now for the Cement to set then i will remove the props. Will probably give it a a week or so. I'm in no rush.

Cheers,
Adrian

themiddleagedun · 8 Apr 2015

I think you should have put a couple more bolts between the acrows & steel Ade.....

Adrian86 · 13 Apr 2015

In this case I prefer the over engineered solution. They are also bolted to the foundations. The beam alone is 5 meters long and probably weighs half a tonne. I wasn't taking any chances. A few bolts would have been enough but there were 4 holes in the prop's so thought I may aswell use them.

Adrian86 · 20 Apr 2015

And now for the other end which is worse than I was expecting.

The cinder block at this end is also cracked. I think I will pour concrete into this one since it's going to be difficult to support the wall and get the whole block out.

I did a few other repairs to damaged cinder blocks about the house by filling them with concrete which worked a treat and the resulting block seems pretty damn strong. Probably not quite as good as a pad stone but much better than a knackered hollow cinder block.

diynot

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RSJ Support advice

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