Well, the plugs were only replaced in late summer and they were expensive high performance plugs as they didn't have a standard plug in the shop at the time. And they've done only 4k, so I reckon I'll just hope for the best with changing the leads. If the problem persists, the plugs will be my next step I guess. But whatever it is, it seems to be coming from cylinder 4! I guess that's something!
Cylinder, coil pack or ignition cables?
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Well I've changed out the leads and still no change. I've no tool to remove the plugs to check them. I was going to take the engine cover off but I noticed that there was white gunk in the tube to the air filter? Very strange? I couldn't figure out how to get the cover off though. I removed two hex screws from the top of the cover and a tube from either side but the cover was still stuck on!! I have new air filters to put on but can't get the cover off. That would hardly be the problem??
The white gunge is known in the trade as mayonnaise ......it's caused by short runs and is in fact, emulsified oil vapour.
It won't have any derogatory effect unless the inlet system is actually full of it so although it's best cleared away it won't be your cause.
So....here we go again, you'll be sorry to hear.
The next three tests I've mentioned before and need special tools - all of which are pretty cheap. So if you want to continue.......
Remove the spark plug from No. 4 cylinder. I use a deep drive magnetic socket for this.
Replace the plug with a known good one and try again.
Next, remove the electrical connection from the fuel injector.....it's a plug held by a wire clip. Using a multi meter, check it's resistance which is usually around 16 ohms.
The last test is to fit a compression tester in the plug hole of No.4 and crank the engine....there should be a reading of around 180 psi.
These sort of tasks are simple for a garage as they will have the tools. What do you think?
John
It won't have any derogatory effect unless the inlet system is actually full of it so although it's best cleared away it won't be your cause.
So....here we go again, you'll be sorry to hear.
The next three tests I've mentioned before and need special tools - all of which are pretty cheap. So if you want to continue.......
Remove the spark plug from No. 4 cylinder. I use a deep drive magnetic socket for this.
Replace the plug with a known good one and try again.
Next, remove the electrical connection from the fuel injector.....it's a plug held by a wire clip. Using a multi meter, check it's resistance which is usually around 16 ohms.
The last test is to fit a compression tester in the plug hole of No.4 and crank the engine....there should be a reading of around 180 psi.
These sort of tasks are simple for a garage as they will have the tools. What do you think?
John
Ok, well I have a ratchet set, and I can see the ends of the spark plugs when I remove the ignition leads. The ratchet set isn't magnetic, but it could maybe get the plugs out? What size adapter will I use?
Also, I wanted to include a photo of that white gunge, as to me it looks like it might be blocking the inlet?
Is this normal or is it a probable cause? Failing this, I might bite the bullet and bring it to the mechanic. Thanks guys
Also, I wanted to include a photo of that white gunge, as to me it looks like it might be blocking the inlet?
Is this normal or is it a probable cause? Failing this, I might bite the bullet and bring it to the mechanic. Thanks guys
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You'll need a proper spark plug socket for this.....there are two main sizes and sorry but I don't know which your car has. The sockets have a rubber insert which pulls the plug clear when unscrewed.
As for the mayo, yes this should be cleaned away but you'll need to access the inside of the air box to do that properly.
Basically this pipe takes fumes from the bowels of the engine up into the air cleaner area where the fumes are burnt as a form of pollution control.
Access to the air filter won't be complicated as it's a regular service item.....we may be able to help if we had a few pics of the complete engine bay.
John
As for the mayo, yes this should be cleaned away but you'll need to access the inside of the air box to do that properly.
Basically this pipe takes fumes from the bowels of the engine up into the air cleaner area where the fumes are burnt as a form of pollution control.
Access to the air filter won't be complicated as it's a regular service item.....we may be able to help if we had a few pics of the complete engine bay.
John
This isn't my car but it's exactly the same engine cover.
You can see where the 2 hex screws are located just under the 1.4mpi name. I removed the hose connected to the air filter housing, on the left, and I removed a thinner hose connected at the right hand side. I think these covers may be held on with some form of suction pads but I'm not 100% sure. Anyway, I don't know whether or not to give it a good forceful effort or not!
You can see where the 2 hex screws are located just under the 1.4mpi name. I removed the hose connected to the air filter housing, on the left, and I removed a thinner hose connected at the right hand side. I think these covers may be held on with some form of suction pads but I'm not 100% sure. Anyway, I don't know whether or not to give it a good forceful effort or not!
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To take the cover off, loosen the two bolts, 10mm socket on whatever extension that will fit down. You will have more pipes to the back if I'm not mistaken, you will see then when you lift the cover. Gently pull the leads out of their groves not mixing them up.
Yes ask a mate for a hand if you are unsure, most important give yourself plenty of time, don't go fixing it just before you need the car.
Yes ask a mate for a hand if you are unsure, most important give yourself plenty of time, don't go fixing it just before you need the car.
Thanks Mursal, I'll check for more hoses and tubes at the back. Back on to the misfire...I should note that since I changed the coil, the car seemed to run better(with the exception of the misfiring if that makes sense?), and again today, with the new leads, it seems to be more responsive than ever, again with the exception of the misfire!
I hope that it's a plug or a fuel injector as I don't think re building a cylinder would be worth it in the long term. It's a shame as I really like this car.
I hope that it's a plug or a fuel injector as I don't think re building a cylinder would be worth it in the long term. It's a shame as I really like this car.
The top cover will have the usual VAG ball plug pads I guess.....they can be a bit daunting to shift as they hold on tight. Good tug upward needed!
I can't see the air filter being anywhere else, can you, Mursal?
John
I can't see the air filter being anywhere else, can you, Mursal?
John
I've a 01 Cordoba, same size engine as yours and had a similar issue about 4 months ago. Had coil pack and leads tested, then spark plugs and nada. Turned out to be dirty injector. Simply using redex additive in the fuel was enough to solve the problem and turn out the engine light. You might be lucky yet! Although you may have overspent on parts that you may not have needed!
Whatever happens, you are in the right place, and being answered by the right people in Burnerman and Mursal. They helped me a lot with my car last year. Good luck!
Whatever happens, you are in the right place, and being answered by the right people in Burnerman and Mursal. They helped me a lot with my car last year. Good luck!
Tried the redex and drove the car for 40 minutes today. Nothing has changed.
Basically, the problems are only evident when the car is first started. The car starts, seems sluggish, then when I get into gear and drive the engine light flashes for about 20 seconds, and then goes solid, and the car drives fine from then on, albeit with the engine shaking a little more than it should be! But the car runs smoothly apart from that. I noticed too that the LCD screen in the car seems to be flickering when I give the car gas in neutral? ay not be anything related but just in case....
But if I turn the engine off, even for just 2 minutes and then restart, the symptoms are exactly the same as above, everytime, hot or cold.
Basically, the problems are only evident when the car is first started. The car starts, seems sluggish, then when I get into gear and drive the engine light flashes for about 20 seconds, and then goes solid, and the car drives fine from then on, albeit with the engine shaking a little more than it should be! But the car runs smoothly apart from that. I noticed too that the LCD screen in the car seems to be flickering when I give the car gas in neutral? ay not be anything related but just in case....
But if I turn the engine off, even for just 2 minutes and then restart, the symptoms are exactly the same as above, everytime, hot or cold.
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Does it ever run smooth, if so when?
Did you ever get the fault codes read, if so what come back on after the old codes were cleared? If you run it for to long missing, it will do permanent damage, especially if it doesn't run good at any time when you drive it.
Yes John, the air filter will be in there, think the whole lot can come off as one unit. Then you split the box to change the filter .........
Did you ever get the fault codes read, if so what come back on after the old codes were cleared? If you run it for to long missing, it will do permanent damage, especially if it doesn't run good at any time when you drive it.
Yes John, the air filter will be in there, think the whole lot can come off as one unit. Then you split the box to change the filter .........
Hi Mursal. Well, yes it runs very smooth after a minute or so. However, if I'm stopped at the lights or whatever, it seems to be shaking a little more than it should be, but it seems to be running smoother since the coil and then smoother again since the leads were changed, but it still misfires on start up, every start up(hot and cold) and the engine flight flashes for 20 to 30 seconds as soon as I start to drive, or even if I leave it idling. And while I mention idling, it doesn't always idle in a stable manner. It seems to rev in neutral by itself when I'm at the lights. Not much but a little bit. But I did change the thermostat and Coolant Temperature Sensor very recently which had been acting up previously.
I haven't run it in VAGcom yet but I might invest in one from ebay and run it through.
It's sounding more and more like a cylinder problem to me though. Symptoms are similar(not identical) to a friend of mine who has a 05 polo and he got occasional flashing engine light, at all different times during driving but not very often, and it eventually turned out to be a cylinder. He eventually lost a second cylinder before finally diagnosing and had to have them rebuilt into the engine(or something like that). Mad stuff.
I haven't run it in VAGcom yet but I might invest in one from ebay and run it through.
It's sounding more and more like a cylinder problem to me though. Symptoms are similar(not identical) to a friend of mine who has a 05 polo and he got occasional flashing engine light, at all different times during driving but not very often, and it eventually turned out to be a cylinder. He eventually lost a second cylinder before finally diagnosing and had to have them rebuilt into the engine(or something like that). Mad stuff.
Its getting more involved, this one.....
Tim, are you able to replace plug number 4 and check the resistance of the fuel injector on that cylinder?
(I presume (read hope) this engine has 4 injectors, rather than a single point one) can anyone confirm?
John
Tim, are you able to replace plug number 4 and check the resistance of the fuel injector on that cylinder?
(I presume (read hope) this engine has 4 injectors, rather than a single point one) can anyone confirm?
John
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