Bullnose edge

deuce22 · 24 May 2015

Hi.

Can someone please tell me the best way of putting a bullnose on the edge of MDF?

I have a router, but haven't got a jig. I have had a quick look at ways of doing it, but I'm still not 100% sure of the best way.

Thanks.

Harbourwoodwork · 24 May 2015

For 3/4" MDF use a 3/8"rounding over cutter with bearing guide ,top and bottom
Cheers Ian

deuce22 · 24 May 2015

Thanks Ian.

It's 25mm MDF.

Does the bearing need to be chamfered, so it doesn't create a step.

Cheers.

Harbourwoodwork · 24 May 2015

Just use a 1/2" rounding over cutter with a standard bearing.
Cheers Ian

deuce22 · 24 May 2015

Ok.

The reason I asked is because I saw this diagram http://www.onboardwithmarkcorke.com/.a/6a010536216f64970b01675fda359a970b-400wi

If I were to buy this http://www.infinitytools.com/images/00-545.jpg Does it have to be used in a table router?

Thanks.

Harbourwoodwork · 24 May 2015

Interesting cutter with a chamfer bearing. I wonder how much that will cost and you will have to change the bearing to complete the moulding.
A 1/2"cutter does leave a really small quirk that is soon sanded off.
The full bullnose cutters can only work with a fence on the router that can be a bit hairy with a big cutter and can be difficult to start and stop the moulding. mounting the router in a bed with a fence can also throw up problems depending on the quality ,any movement with the hold downs and you'll end up with ovolo mouldings
Cheers Ian

deuce22 · 24 May 2015

Ok, I'll stick with what you first advised and sand it down after.

Thanks for your help Ian.

big-all · 24 May 2015

just stop the cutter 1.5mm short off the halfway plunge this will give you a 2mm flat on the nose that you wont see and a very shallow transition top and bottom again you wont notice

geraldthehamster · 26 May 2015

What are you using the MDF for, and how wide does it need to be? You can buy MDF window board with the bullnose on it.

Cheers
Richard

deuce22 · 27 May 2015

I'm making stairs in my garage.

I know it would be cheaper to buy them or pay somebody, but it's more of a hobby as well. I'd like to learn how to do more things with a router.

The other thing I'd like to check is, if I want to put a groove under the step for the riser to slot in, would I use a straight cutter?

Cheers.

big-all · 27 May 2015

use a minimum 12mm mdf for the riser 2 or 3 passes use a fence or baton
when cutting a slot the router will pull towards you right to left and away from you left to right
so keep this in mind when choosing a baton or fence as the baton needs compression and the fence needs "stretching" to take the slack out
are you routing the strings ??

deuce22 · 28 May 2015

I was thinking of routing the strings, but with the stair kit I've bought it say's there's no need, triangle pieces of softwood have come with it and it says to fix these for each step.

Is routing out much better? I would have definitely done it if the stairs were being used more often.

I bought this bit for routing out the underneath of the step for the riser. I got the 25mm one. I know the risers don't have to be 25mm thick, but I've got a lot of 25mm MDF and may as well use it up.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-twin-flute-straight-router-cutters-1-4-6-35mm

big-all · 28 May 2015

you should only go for half the shank in depth off cut a bit less for 25mm width off groove over a12mm groove
i personally would buy a 12mm mm cutter to reduce the number off passes
a say 12mm deep by 12mm rebate will require 3 or 4 passes at different depths
a 25x12mm would need perhaps 5 or six passes

grooved and wedge stair string far far more effort but no visible fixings and less susceptible to movement

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Bullnose edge

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