box guttering

browfish · 26 Mar 2006

i have had a new roof cut on my rear extension that is simply a pitched roof with a gable end running away from the house. However, it runs parrallel to a previous extension with a flat roof so one half of the roof drains down to where the meet. The builder that cut the roof has built a box gutter but lining the lower part with ply to form a chanel. My question is now that i am going to felt, batton adn tile this how do i finsih the box gutter off.
I presume i felt and tile over the ply so that the roof simply overlaps to the bottom of the box gutter. Is that right? If so, do i use normal flat roofing felt to waterproof the gutter first?
thanks

masona · 27 Mar 2006

Any chance of a photo?

browfish · 27 Mar 2006

yeah. I havent got any but i will try and take one.

browfish · 3 Apr 2006

Hi
I took some photos at the weekend. Hope these help

[/img]

masona · 4 Apr 2006

That's quite a big box section! I don't know what's on your drawing plan for this but I would've thought been easier to run another lot of rafters to change the angle for a smaller box section because you will need a very wide lead flashing to do this otherwise. (not cheap) Which way does the fall goes from the flat roof? It may be easier to put in a smaller window to allow the new rafters position meet up to the flat roof or you could extend the flat roof to the rafters(?) There's many way of doing this though.

browfish · 5 Apr 2006

WHat about if i run some rafters down from the flat room so that they meet the other rafters, creating a kind of lean to roof and then the box gutter will be

How do i joint the box gutter and the tiled roof though. DO i run a lead strip up the valley, then overlap the felt and tiles over this? If so whats to stop the water running down the roof into the lead valley and then up under the felt on the other side? Can i not line the whole box gutter with flat roofing felt so that it starts on the flat roof, runs down the vertical, then across the valley and up the rafters on the other side. I then tile the pitched roof over down into the box gutter so that the tiles overlap the roofing felt.

thanks for your help so far

Static · 5 Apr 2006

Have you got an architect doing plans for you?

Nige F · 5 Apr 2006

The whole thing wants leading..........thats why the builder has put a step in it....easy job for a young fit skilled leadworker...counts me out on 2 issues then

browfish · 5 Apr 2006

No i dont have an architect. I have drawn the plans myself simply to get through planning persmission and am working on a building notice with the regs. I have done all the works myself til now from foundations (including the 2 storey extension you can see in the photo) to ripping the whole roof off built a brand new roof over the entire house (taken me the last 8 weeks of weekends) and now looking at this single storey roof which.

The only bit i havent done so far is to cut this roof which a local chippie did for me but i fell out with him over time he was taking ot do it and extra price variances so i cant ask him now how to finish.

So do i need to lead down the vertical side of the flat roof shown below and up the rafters. If so, how far up each side do i need to go? THen do i tile right down to the flat section of the box gutter?
thanks for all your help. Just trying to figure out how to do this before easter as i want to finish it over the hols.

joe-90 · 5 Apr 2006

If it were me I'd use lead. Traditional flashing into the wall of the flat roof building (like you see where single garages butt against 2 storey houses) and across and up the rafters about 6-9 inches. I'd tile down to almost the bottom of the channel and make sure that your felt laps on top of the lead.

joe

roofer4u · 22 Apr 2006

We have been lining box gutters and valley gutters with fibreglass for about 5years now. Architects have been specifying it as well because you do not need to step the gutter as you would need to, to join lead.

Reinforce all plyboard joints with GRP and then laminate the whole gutter, finished with a dark grey gelcoat.

If you was local to me I would'nt hesitate in giving you a quote!

Jason

Nige F · 23 Apr 2006

I`m inclined to agree with you R4u

gotter be easier in this instance.

chappers · 23 Apr 2006

line the box with lead, witha flashing against the existing wall, I would go all the way up the adjoining wall and then refelt the flat roof.
Can't se why there should have been any price variences, that roof looks about as simple as they come. I would have cut and boxed that roof in just over a day for you.

browfish · 24 Apr 2006

Cheers guys

chappers, there wernet any varaiance over that roof. The disagreement was over the main roof over the main 2 storey part of the house.

mnb · 25 Apr 2006

browfish,excellent work to do all that if your not in the building trade. Is there any chance of full rear elevation pics of the main house and etxn. and the whole of the rear roofs area?
In the meantime clean up the site as best you can, it makes it astonishingly easier to visualise and work in when its tidy.
Is that corrugated iron structure an Anderson shelter?
Whatever, you should finish off all above the extn. including rain water goods, pointing, painting and possible moving of window openings before you roof over.
Ask BCO for tips, most are reasonable people.

diynot

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

box guttering

Similar threads