Cold bathroom, how to block holes around pipework..?

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So, our bathroom is cold in winter.
We removed carpet tiles for sanded floorboards.
They have had the gaps filled between.
My only guess for the source of the cold could be the gaps around the pipework.. Such as this
1441732093025-1915271635.jpg

1441732093025-1915271635.jpg
Do we think this would be the culprit?

And any tips on how best to block the gap in, other than scribing out some wood?

Thanks in advance..
 
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Maybe; is there a cold draught from that hole?

But more obviously, is there not enough heating or poor insulation?
 
I'd use expanding foam to fill the gaps, but Id guess there are other reasons for the chill factor!
John :)
 
thanks both..

to try to answer your questions -
the room is small, here's a picture.
IMG_20150909_154350.jpg

it was previously warm, despite a rotten window with large gaps, and a vent, but with the dirtiest carpet tiles to grace the earth.

so, I removed the carpet tiles, had the floor sanded and gaps filled,

IMG_20150909_154359.jpg


the radiator is the same, and it gets very hot, so I don't think that's the problem.

I've put beading around much of the skirting boards, although still need a bit of caulk..
IMG_20150909_154421.jpg

so, am not sure what else it could be?
unless I get a temp gauge on the walls to see if one has a problem?

cheers.
 
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Personally I wouldn't expect much heat coming off that towel rail - they are rarely as effective as a standard radiator (which could be twin panel.)
Is there any draught coming up from the skirting area?
You will get some draught coming from under the door, with the carpet tiles removed - that can be a good thing!
John :)
 
okay, thanks burnerman,
I will consider radiator options.

the door does have a gap, but the rest of the house is normally warmer than the bathroom...
will checkfor drafts as it gets colder..
 
expanding foam will do it, but it will also glue the pipes, walls, floor and ceiling together. ?You could also pack it with mineral wool and cut a piece of ply to blend in with the floor.

I only use mineral wool treated with Ecose now, which does not shed irritating dust and fibres. It is made by Knauf but also sold as own-brands. Look for the word on the packaging. It is brown and feels smooth.

BTW if air is coming in, it is also going out. Some will be through the extractor fan, but also look for holes in the ceiling where pipes, cables and light fittings go through. Airing cupboards are often very shoddily finished because they are out of sight.

Any external walls will also be cold, as will the ceiling if loft not well insulated or gappy.
 
thanks John.
I will look for mineral wool.
my confusion is that the bathroom was warm enough for years, and the only thing changed is the removal of the carpet tiles.

although, I think it also coincided with my wife moving in... hmm, perhaps that's the most significant change...;)
 
Cork tiles make bathroom floors feel much warmer.
That radiator will not have much heat output and you have insulated it by putting towels on it.
 
yeah, the carpet tiles down before did nothing, but collect dirt.

we had got to the stage of removing towels to keep the room warm, which was silly.

there's bathroom towel rads with 3K+ btus, double what the room theoretically needs, so that is one option if plugging gaps fails. cheers endecotp.
 
although, I think it also coincided with my wife moving in...

Perhaps she has been opening windows to ventilate the house, especially the bathroom <parp>

A extractor fan is useful in a bathroom. Modern ones are very economical on electricity, and can be very quiet.

If your bathroom is modern and well insulated, a 600W radiator would do, but if it is in an old house, 1kW might be better. A thermostatic radiator valve will prevent the room being overheated and wasting energy.
 

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