Replacing 3-way valve in wood-pellet boiler system

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thelaughingbadger

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Hi All

My first post here but I'm looking for a bit of advice (I am a willing novice). I've a wood-pellet boiler and thermal store in the garage. It provides hot water through the radiators in the house and feeds the hot water tank in the loft, where the header tank is. There are no other heat sources.

The three-way valve in the garage is leaking (not the connections but the valve itself). I attach a couple of pictures where you can hopefully see the set-up in the garage around the faulty valve in question (the one behind the automix). I have a replacement valve but I am just not too sure how to replace it in terms of whether I need to drain the whole system first or if there is some way of minimising the amount of draining etc. that I have to do.

Any hints, tips or ideas would be very much appreciated. Happy to provide clarification if none of this makes sense!

Thanks in advance

Ben
 

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Your pics haven't attached properly - they're in a *.zip format and there's no chance I'm opening that! Try posting JPEGs
 
... and now with pictures (thank you Andrew!)
IMG-20150928-00087.jpg
IMG-20150928-00087.jpg
IMG-20150928-00088.jpg
 
Looks like some kind of proportional mixing valve.

Also seems the pump has been leaking as well.

Tony
 
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That's better.

I did try to open it but WinZip is a chargeable program now and I don't really need it.

Tony
 
I think the pump is fine (it's just some crud stuck to the front). So, no other way than to drain everything down? Assume that means thermal store, radiators and water to the hot water tank?
 
Drain down. Also, change the pump valves at same time. The type you've got a leaks waiting to happen.

Remember to buy a large volume of inhibitor to add once it'd been refilled and operating for a few days without fault.
 
Ben have you checked that there are no isolation valves on the flow, to and from the valve and the return connection, you have got the pump isolation valve (but wouldn't trust it).

If you can post additional pictures or draw up a schematic there may be an easier option.
 
Thanks for all advice so far - will try to get more pics/sketch out system later in week (I've very cleverly managed to knacker my foot today!)
 
It is a mixing valve. Change the valve. Some makers have kits that only replace the sealing glands, which are cheap. Check before buying a whole new valve. Do not change the actuator.
 
Last edited:
manortim said:
Drain down. Also, change the pump valves at same time. The type you've got a leaks waiting to happen.

Remember to buy a large volume of inhibitor to add once it'd been refilled and operating for a few days without fault.
Click to expand...
Yes. use pump adapters and a full flow ball valve on each side. Those valves act as restrictions.
 
Hello all

Managed to roughly map what is going on - hope it makes sense. Have not managed to map whole system, just the boiler and thermal store. These then link to system in loft (header tank, hot water storage tank). Could not see any isolation valves other than those on either side of the pump (I note comments re. not trusting these). Quite happy with idea of cutting in new valves - assuming one each on C and D and possibly to left of faulty valve? What I'm not quite sure of is where A -D lead to/from and direction of flow. And not clear as to what process of draining down would be.

upload_2015-10-3_10-51-1.png
 
Please can you provide additional information on your current system setup.

1- make and model of pellet boiler
2- make and size of thermal store
3- what heat emitters you have in the property.
4- additional pics of pipe work from boiler to store and from store to property.
 
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