Is it a hard job to cut a trap in a chipboard floating floor to get access to below the insulation again. As it's all held together by tongue and grooves
trap in floating floor.
- Thread starter tomsim
- Start date
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No joists underneath is on a solid floor with insulation underneath
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No way of easy cutting a square out to get excess beneath with it causing movement in the floor as there'll be no tongue and groove when putting the cut section back down?
For this situation, I have a blade in my jigsaw cut so that it only cuts the depth of the board and nothing more.
I guess you can stick the patch back down using one of the gripfill adhesives that are available.
Why do you need to get down there, Tom?
John
I guess you can stick the patch back down using one of the gripfill adhesives that are available.
Why do you need to get down there, Tom?
John
To get to a pipe
Circular saw set to depth of flooring will cut out cleanly, you can add a lip afterwards so you can re-instate.
How do you add a lip?
Thin flat steel or ali strip tucked halfway under the edge and screwed thru from above with self tapping screws.
Our house has those horrible T&G chipboard floors so I had to buy a circular hand saw for getting access. I hate the damned thing, it's brutal, noisy, dangerous and frightening. Once the hole is made it's easy enough to re-fit the board by screwing some batten with PVA glue under the edges to create a lip onto which to screw the piece you cut out. This makes it easily removed in future if you need access again.
I assume by floating floor the OP has insulation below so no room for batten.
Router.
Okay I understand. Then yes, the best suggestion is some thin strips of steel or ali underneath. Once the "hatch" is screwed down onto those, cut some lengths of thin batten, apply loads of PVA and hammer them into the saw cuts to wedge the "hatch" in place. You can buy batten in different widths and thicknesses and I find unused wood venetian blind slats very useful for this kind of job. This will secure the "hatch" very well, in fact you don't even need the metal strips if you can devise a way of keeping it level while you press in the battens.
I've done this recently, I just cut the hatch with a circular saw to the correct depth, when re instating I just under cut the insulation around the perimeter enough to screw a timber batten to support the infill, screw and PU glue job done.
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