Renault 1.2 clio brake front discs help please

Ello all,

I brought my first car as I wasn't in the mood to spend £100s of pounds I brought a £40 car
(no mot, no tax etc which is perfect as I'm on a provisional and only brought it to put in my garage and dump insurance to get my ncb before passing my test, yea cheeky sod me LOL)

But anyway I started to wonder about what was wrong with the car so I thought stuff it put it in for an mot.....

For a car that's been standing for a year it failed nicely
(I knew it would fail anyway)

• Front brakes deteriorated both sides (discs + pads + needs bleeding)
• rear Suspension coil broke (offside) - fixed
• 2 bulbs out (sidelight and plate light) - fixed
• gaiter boot needs replacing pending
• both front light units needs cleaning - fixed
• Battery not secure - fixed

Basically the car is a death-trap due to the brakes (about 4 points on the front brakes on it's own)


So I decided it actually might be worth fixing up as the car has only cost £40 to buy and it's not like it needs major welding or a new engine (shockingly it does start + passed emissions)

So got to it calliper off, pads out, got to the discs and a kick in the butt

Due to standing for a year the screws in the break discs has kinda stuck to it or rusted together and i'm not too sure what to do.......

So does anyone have an idea?

tried so far:
WD40 + unscrewing it (going to round it off with this method)
Hammer + forceful smashing (this will probably shatter the old brake disc)


Due to it tipping it down I haven't been able to get the welder out or a drill but would like an idea that I can try without them


vehicle spec:

51 plate Renault clio, 1.2

Thank you in advance

No problem with these mate - those screws are for location only so if they are as bad as you say, then drill the heads off.
After that, a few good taps from the back of the disc should see it come away from the hub. Do clean the hub up nicely though afterwards, so the new disc can run square on the hub...use some emery cloth for this.
You can try to drill the screw remains out if you want - its a 6mm thread but don't worry about it if you cant. Use the wheel bolts to hold the disc as you do the rest of the work.
If your Clio has the 8 valve D7F motor, do look out for water pump leaks, and coil pack failure.
John

I'll just add to this.....if you have the screws out and the disc still wont shift (unlikely) , refrain from braying seven bells out of it - you'll distort the hub. Use an angle grinder to cut a slot in the disc, stick a chisel in the groove and split the disc. It'll submit after that!
John

That's all good Thank you

I'll have to take a picture tomorrow while it's daylight, to say it's bad is an understatement lol

ah I'll stop whacking now lol

Do you think the car (nicknamed mouldy) is worth the repairs?

For forty quid Gazza, down on your knees and give thanks
Obviously spend the minimum on it but keep the oil level and coolant attended to. Expect issues with the plip central locking and leaks from the sun roof, there will probably be rust around the rear wheel arches.
I would doubt if you'll get the brake caliper nipples open to renew the fluid, they snap off and you'll need a replacement caliper to sort that.
The water pump tends to self destruct (leaks and rumbles first), the wheel bearings are lucky to see 80k but there were thousands made, and loads in the breakers!
Be lucky
John

The bright news no sunroof LOL

I will have to look at the oil and water soon god knows when it last had a service

new callipers another trip to euro parts lol

mines done over 150k miles so it will probably die soon LMAO

thanks john

Don't buy the calipers until you have sorted the discs and pads mate - may not need it!
If you want to be busy, consider the timing belt replacement..... (includes water pump)
John

I'm gonna wd40 them today and leave em over night and s as i will probably not get round to bleeding today unfortunately i have to find another job at the moment.

Change the discs and pads and pray i don't need calipers lol

If you can, some heat around the hub centre can only help, then whack it from the back.
Resist any temptation to undo the central drive shaft nut!
John

Proper freeing oil like "Plus Gas" is generally better than WD40 for freeing rusty bolts and so on in my experience. WD is great stuff, but it's good at lots of things IMO rather than being great at one specific thing.
A smear of Copaslip or similar on threads doesn't hurt when putting back.
Bit of heat helps too as John says, don't go mad where there are seals or bearings though.
Once (If!) you get the bleed nipples free put some of the little rubber caps you can get on them. Helps with stopping them seizing.

Forty quid! Bleedin' 'ell! I thought I had a good buy with my old Cortina for fifty quid in about 1980! I had to rebuild the inner wings and top plates on that though!

Plus-Gas and plascticine !!
Wheels off, use plasticine to build small, cup like open top mouldings or dams around the screw heads - fill each with Plus-Gas (submerging screw heads) leave overnight.

-0-