Trusteel 60's detached house, is a steel build all that bad?
- Thread starter marklamar
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Thanks cgas. Saw that earlier on - in the East Midlands and I'm in London...
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Are you still looking, I can point you? I guess decision made by now etc?
Hi all, going to jump on this old post for aome advice please...
I am considering buying a Semi-detached Trusteel Mk2 bungalow. It is the perfect location and ticks a lot of boxes for us. For a family home, and with a view for living in it for a long period of time. Only just realised it was a Trusteel MK2 when kn a second viewing, checking out the loft for a possible loft conversion idea as there is ample room up there.
Also the current owner has got a full structural survey just done, including invasive testing (removal of some brick cladding to check steel stanchions for corrosion, roof supports and steel inside cavity walls), I have read the report and all is fine according to the engineer.
Does anyone have experience of these builds and more specifically with undertaking extensions to them? This property has ample roof to extend tocthe side, back and into the loft space. However I know thay you cannot internally insulate (moisture next to steels etc.) so where doe that leave you with a loft conversion and insulating?
I understand it may be hard to sell on in future depending on the market. However I am looking for a long term family home, reselling is not on the agenda, as long as it is possible to extend in the areas mentioned...
Also most internal cavity walls and ceilings have Artex on them (build is 1954) so I assume probably asbestos. How does this affect knocking down/rearranging internal walls, and extending?
If these above issues have a workaround or cause no problem then fine, however, if it causes extensive issues (financial and so on) to do this, is it a case for arguing for a lower price? As we will definitely need to extend/rearrange internal walls etc, to make the place upto standard.
Also there are many other same bungalows in the area which buy and sell regularly for same proce as conventional builds.
Any and all advice is appreciated.
I am considering buying a Semi-detached Trusteel Mk2 bungalow. It is the perfect location and ticks a lot of boxes for us. For a family home, and with a view for living in it for a long period of time. Only just realised it was a Trusteel MK2 when kn a second viewing, checking out the loft for a possible loft conversion idea as there is ample room up there.
Also the current owner has got a full structural survey just done, including invasive testing (removal of some brick cladding to check steel stanchions for corrosion, roof supports and steel inside cavity walls), I have read the report and all is fine according to the engineer.
Does anyone have experience of these builds and more specifically with undertaking extensions to them? This property has ample roof to extend tocthe side, back and into the loft space. However I know thay you cannot internally insulate (moisture next to steels etc.) so where doe that leave you with a loft conversion and insulating?
I understand it may be hard to sell on in future depending on the market. However I am looking for a long term family home, reselling is not on the agenda, as long as it is possible to extend in the areas mentioned...
Also most internal cavity walls and ceilings have Artex on them (build is 1954) so I assume probably asbestos. How does this affect knocking down/rearranging internal walls, and extending?
If these above issues have a workaround or cause no problem then fine, however, if it causes extensive issues (financial and so on) to do this, is it a case for arguing for a lower price? As we will definitely need to extend/rearrange internal walls etc, to make the place upto standard.
Also there are many other same bungalows in the area which buy and sell regularly for same proce as conventional builds.
Any and all advice is appreciated.
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Hi,
Lots of questions and I can only answer as an owner and maybe somebody that has done a fair degree of renovation. I can only describe how mine is built as there are variations on a theme. I’ve even got the original trusteel drawing for mine.
Mine is a detached house and that doesn’t have steel in any internal wall .. all conventional brick or breeze block walls (even gable ends). The only steel is front and rear elevation external walls, floor joists and loft space.
With regard to extension, like taking a hole in steel wall through to a new space, that should be possible. A neighbour did that in his house and they just welded a “Goal post” arrangement to replace steel creating a hole. How loft extension would work .. not sure.
With regard to insulation and steel, and his will be contentious. Although it “seems” common sense not to insulate around steel there is no proof that there is an issue. There’s even talk that in a conventional house that added insulation causes issues with cavity ties. I spoke to a chap that had been researching this .. even he could not find real evidence to support this. Sadly there was some dross written in a paper by somebody that had no facts .. but then again he also said timber houses were bad and all rot.
My house was pumped full of insulation nearly 40 years ago. Since then, and only because of the previous cowboy builder I have has the internal leaf wall off, removed insulation and added the likes of Cellotex. No sign of any rust marks on insulation that I pulled out. Is easy to add by sliding 100mm + 25mm sheets in between steels and spaced off external wall by slithers of 25 mm. I then use a proper vapour barrier, fix 18mm OSB and then finally fix plasterboard. I can send photos as I have a wall open at moment. Is warmer than the old insulation but allowed me to block a window and neatly finish the wall were the cowboy had thumped various holes for soils pipes etc
Are you sure it will be hard to sell .. you just bought it
Ultimately a steel will sell for less than its conventional counterparts .. but you also likely to have bought it for less.
For Artex/asbestos .. I can’t comment. However, the ceiling is constructed by them having screwed 2” x 1” slats (the same stuff used for roofing) cross ways to the steel joists. Self tapping screws in the crease of the steel. They nailed the plasterboard up to those slats. What I’ve done is fix same type of slats cross ways across old ones (same direction as steel joists) by screwing through old plasterboard with 60mm screws.
Hope that is of some help. All sounds daunting but there's always a way.
Regards
Paul
Lots of questions and I can only answer as an owner and maybe somebody that has done a fair degree of renovation. I can only describe how mine is built as there are variations on a theme. I’ve even got the original trusteel drawing for mine.
Mine is a detached house and that doesn’t have steel in any internal wall .. all conventional brick or breeze block walls (even gable ends). The only steel is front and rear elevation external walls, floor joists and loft space.
With regard to extension, like taking a hole in steel wall through to a new space, that should be possible. A neighbour did that in his house and they just welded a “Goal post” arrangement to replace steel creating a hole. How loft extension would work .. not sure.
With regard to insulation and steel, and his will be contentious. Although it “seems” common sense not to insulate around steel there is no proof that there is an issue. There’s even talk that in a conventional house that added insulation causes issues with cavity ties. I spoke to a chap that had been researching this .. even he could not find real evidence to support this. Sadly there was some dross written in a paper by somebody that had no facts .. but then again he also said timber houses were bad and all rot.
My house was pumped full of insulation nearly 40 years ago. Since then, and only because of the previous cowboy builder I have has the internal leaf wall off, removed insulation and added the likes of Cellotex. No sign of any rust marks on insulation that I pulled out. Is easy to add by sliding 100mm + 25mm sheets in between steels and spaced off external wall by slithers of 25 mm. I then use a proper vapour barrier, fix 18mm OSB and then finally fix plasterboard. I can send photos as I have a wall open at moment. Is warmer than the old insulation but allowed me to block a window and neatly finish the wall were the cowboy had thumped various holes for soils pipes etc
Are you sure it will be hard to sell .. you just bought it
Ultimately a steel will sell for less than its conventional counterparts .. but you also likely to have bought it for less.For Artex/asbestos .. I can’t comment. However, the ceiling is constructed by them having screwed 2” x 1” slats (the same stuff used for roofing) cross ways to the steel joists. Self tapping screws in the crease of the steel. They nailed the plasterboard up to those slats. What I’ve done is fix same type of slats cross ways across old ones (same direction as steel joists) by screwing through old plasterboard with 60mm screws.
Hope that is of some help. All sounds daunting but there's always a way.
Regards
Paul
Thanks for the info,Hi,
Lots of questions and I can only answer as an owner and maybe somebody that has done a fair degree of renovation. I can only describe how mine is built as there are variations on a theme. I’ve even got the original trusteel drawing for mine.
Mine is a detached house and that doesn’t have steel in any internal wall .. all conventional brick or breeze block walls (even gable ends). The only steel is front and rear elevation external walls, floor joists and loft space.
With regard to extension, like taking a hole in steel wall through to a new space, that should be possible. A neighbour did that in his house and they just welded a “Goal post” arrangement to replace steel creating a hole. How loft extension would work .. not sure.
With regard to insulation and steel, and his will be contentious. Although it “seems” common sense not to insulate around steel there is no proof that there is an issue. There’s even talk that in a conventional house that added insulation causes issues with cavity ties. I spoke to a chap that had been researching this .. even he could not find real evidence to support this. Sadly there was some dross written in a paper by somebody that had no facts .. but then again he also said timber houses were bad and all rot.
My house was pumped full of insulation nearly 40 years ago. Since then, and only because of the previous cowboy builder I have has the internal leaf wall off, removed insulation and added the likes of Cellotex. No sign of any rust marks on insulation that I pulled out. Is easy to add by sliding 100mm + 25mm sheets in between steels and spaced off external wall by slithers of 25 mm. I then use a proper vapour barrier, fix 18mm OSB and then finally fix plasterboard. I can send photos as I have a wall open at moment. Is warmer than the old insulation but allowed me to block a window and neatly finish the wall were the cowboy had thumped various holes for soils pipes etc
Are you sure it will be hard to sell .. you just bought it
For Artex/asbestos .. I can’t comment. However, the ceiling is constructed by them having screwed 2” x 1” slats (the same stuff used for roofing) cross ways to the steel joists. Self tapping screws in the crease of the steel. They nailed the plasterboard up to those slats. What I’ve done is fix same type of slats cross ways across old ones (same direction as steel joists) by screwing through old plasterboard with 60mm screws.
Hope that is of some help. All sounds daunting but there's always a way.
Regards
Paul
Could you send some photos please? That would really help!
It does sound daunting, however as I said in the original post I am up for the work, just as long as its possible to extend. Is yours a Trusteel MKII as well?
thanks
Hello, sorry to resurrect this thread again but I am worrying myself!
We own an MKII Trusteel house. We bought it last year- had a structural engineer look at it and all grand.
I am now panicking though as our dishwasher has been leaking through the floor - we didn't realise until the laminate was wet. I know it is BAD to get water into these houses due to rust and corrosion. Is there anything I need to do or is it likely it has damaged the frame? We are pulling the dishwasher out to replace it tomorrow.
We own an MKII Trusteel house. We bought it last year- had a structural engineer look at it and all grand.
I am now panicking though as our dishwasher has been leaking through the floor - we didn't realise until the laminate was wet. I know it is BAD to get water into these houses due to rust and corrosion. Is there anything I need to do or is it likely it has damaged the frame? We are pulling the dishwasher out to replace it tomorrow.
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