Circulating water in house without boiler being on.

Dan Robinson said:
Yes and no. Best not apply any presumptions here from you part as you have no idea how all this works.
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I really don't understand the reason you feel it necessary to continue to try to put me down.


Dan Robinson said:
Easiest option would be to bridge the F&R between boiler and first take off's with a pump and NRV wired to whatever half baked controller you think will do the trick.
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Yes I first considered this, however I was concerned that when the boiler is off it the secondary pump would produce a back pressure through the the boiler, like wise when the pump is off and boiler is on. Ie against the normal direction of flow, are you saying that is nothing to worry about?

When the ground floor building work finished downstairs I found that boiler that was fitted was having difficulties supplying the radiators on the top floor, they are on the end of long loop through the first floor much of the run only uses 15mm pipe work, I will at some point eliminate reduce the length of the run, as I have now installed a 22mm riser directly to the second floor. However if I connect the pump I have (and yes it is rated for a 3 story house being in head pressure) in series with the boiler it should assist with the flow. Hence why I was thinking I would just install a controllable bypass for the boiler for my experiment and any the any presure through the boiler will always be in the same way it normally is.

Dan Robinson said:
But I'm telling you. This will achieve the sum total of nothing but a bigger electric bill.
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Nah, I will end up with a better circulation in my central heating system during normal operation.
 
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Tay7 said:
Ducting the air directly with a fan would work better or painting the radiators black :)
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Well I may well do something with a fan an ducting however currently there is a problem with the flow to be fixed and I am having a loft extension done in a bit when I could arrange such things.

As to painting the radiators black, don't think I will be doing that as "radiators" radiate very little heat which that would assist with, and in fact work by conduction to the air and then use convection of to spread it into the room. I always felt they should really be called "convectors".
 
Fair play mate, the black radiators was tongue in cheek.

Try your plans, I'd love you to prove us wrong. I'm just looking at it from a physics point of view. Ive never tried it myself.
 
That is a silly idea, Trust me, it will not work. Heat air rise and cold air just sink.

Your best way is ducting and fan like Tay7 said.

As for solar heating, you need a cylinder.

Daniel.
 
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oolon said:
I really don't understand the reason you feel it necessary to continue to try to put me down.
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Why do people not getting the answers they want think they're being put down.... I am stating a fact based on things like the following little gems....

oolon said:
I was concerned that when the boiler is off it the secondary pump would produce a back pressure
Click to expand...

oolon said:
Ie against the normal direction of flow, are you saying that is nothing to worry about?
Click to expand...

oolon said:
Nah, I will end up with a better circulation in my central heating system during normal operation.
Click to expand...


You didn't read what I posted. Or if you did, you didn't comprehend it. The additional pump wouldn't affect squat if installed as I described. So I refer you back to my point of you not understanding WTF is going on in your system. Nor the properties of heat and thermal dynamics.
 
Assuming you can defy the laws of physics and get the heat from the top floor to the underfloor , how are you going to keep it in just that location?
 
before you get your loft extension built your better of sorting your heating system out first .
 
Dan Robinson said:
The additional pump wouldn't affect squat if installed as I described.
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I do well understand that Dan which is why have no intention of installing a pump how you suggested because it is a very bad idea for the reason I already stated, and if you had read what I had said about connecting the pump in series with the boiler you would have realised that how I am connecting it would would have improved the flow pressure when the boiler was on and the bypass was closed (normal state).

However I don't think I am going to get the answer to my question here about if it is possible to damage a boiler with a secondary pump if for some reason the pump on the boiler is turned off.
 
Pump

Pump


From my understanding Dan just suggested that I should connect a pump in parellel with the boiler across the flow and return. Dan is incorrect in stating that a pump in parellel would not increase the flow presure should the Boiler and Pump both be on at the same time it would however clearly this is a bad idea as any water going though the pump would not get heated. Also if the Boiler was not in operation there would be a reverse flow pressure across the boiler which may or may not damage it.

My idea connect the pump in series withe the boiler, some times running the system with the boiler and the Aux Pump active and the motorised valve closed this I hope would increase the water pressure in the system allowing it to get to my second story better, at times with the valve open boiler turned off and just the aux pump running and the motorised valve open. having an accessable bypass for the boiler gives me a place I can power flush the system (I already have manual isolator valves on the boiler). It also means a can continue to distrute heat around the house, after the boiler has turn off. When the aux pump is active on its own it will never produce a reverse flow across the boiler.

All my question was is should I fully issolate the boiler when running things though the bypass (open motorised valve) with the aux pump.
 
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