When did I say that?
Circulating water in house without boiler being on.
- Thread starter oolon
- Start date
When did I say that?
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Are you going to dead head you pump in hot water mode?
What the feck is flow pressure?
Clueless.
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WTF is that first attachment supposed to be regarding circulators in parallel?
Obviously a clueless idiot with regard to the head/flow rate on a parallel set up.
No, as I will have an interlock so when ever the aux pump is off the bypass always opens. So should the boiler pump activate, it can send water around the bypass, it will just have a short 14 meter circuit.
How will this interlock know when the boiler is in hot water mode?
WTF is that first attachment supposed to be regarding circulators in parallel?
Obviously a clueless idiot with regard to the head/flow rate on a parallel set up.
Does seem to be missing quite a few bits
Dan suggested I should connect them in parallel, I thought it was a bad idea for the reasons I stated, i suggested doing things in series. How would you suggest I boost the head pressure of my system? I thought having a pump in series that supports a 18 meter head should do the trick.WTF is that first attachment supposed to be regarding circulators in parallel?
Obviously a clueless idiot with regard to the head/flow rate on a parallel set up.
Which were as crap and misguided as using an auxiliary pump to scavenge heat from upstairs to try and dump in downstairs UFH.
This is before of course you mentioned other problems on page 2 about crap circulation on the top floor.
yeh gods.It does not need to, either the heating is on the aux pump will be on, and the motorised valve will be closed, or the heating is off, the motorized valve is open and the aux pump may or may not be running. Should the boiler need to shut water in the CH system it still can at all times.
huh?
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My suggestions to you would be wasted and a complete waste of my time oolon......
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I'm going to run a bath. Might check in whilst watching X Files just for a laugh.
havent read this thread fully so may have been mentioned
if your house is open plan your differentials will be fairly correct at 1-3 degrees per m in heat rise
in other words hot air rises
if your house has doors and you close them on the bottom floors the heat will rise in those rooms far faster than any from heat scavenged from upstairs
if your house is open plan your differentials will be fairly correct at 1-3 degrees per m in heat rise
in other words hot air rises
if your house has doors and you close them on the bottom floors the heat will rise in those rooms far faster than any from heat scavenged from upstairs
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