What saw do i need

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Folks, go easy if I sound a bit dim but I am not sure what type of saw I need.. here is the issue.. my daughter has a sideboard a really good quality one and the depth is 45cm but I need to take the back off to fit over the fuseboard/electric meter to a depth of 33cm,it is not really used but just for cosmetic reasons.. ok so I want to take the back off it and cut top/sides and base as it is now protruding ... I want to use a electric saw and make a neat finish but looking at them I am not sure if I need a table or bench saw or something else and with a fine blade to get the neat finish... cheers guys
 
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The best option would be a table saw assuming you could actually mount the table on it and it was big enough. These things don't come cheap, a decent one will set you back a couple of grand and the portable ones start at about £250 up. Next option would be a circular saw, but then you have to be pretty skillful. I personally have no problem with circular saws cutting a straight line. Choose a large one which will have more momentum and get a decent fine blade as the stock ones tend to be a bit general purpose. The easiest option is a jig saw, again if you take your time a straight line is possible.

Having said all of that, you will get a decent result with a hand saw.

I'd be tempted to go with the circular saw and a belt sander.
 
I'd suggest that it will be downright dangerous to attempt to use a table saw to make these cuts - you'd need to work with both the guard and riving knife removed and doing the end cuts with the entire sideboard standing on its' end would be both difficult to control as well as dangerous! Far better a circular saw with a sharp bladeand a guide batten - for a 165mm saw a 40 to 48 tooth blade would do nicely. By taking the saw to the workpiece you have far more control over the cut. Watch out for embedded ironmongery, e.g. screws, brackets, pins, etc as these can ruin a blade. Not keen on jigsaws for long cuts - even the best can wander a bit. Rail saw nice, but pricey.
 
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I'm not really understanding. Why does the sideboard need cutting down. Cant you just cut a hole in the nack to go over the fuseboard. The fuse board would then be acceseed from inside the sideboard
 
I'd suggest that it will be downright dangerous to attempt to use a table saw to make these cuts - you'd need to work with both the guard and riving knife removed and doing the end cuts with the entire sideboard standing on its' end would be both difficult to control as well as dangerous! Far better a circular saw with a sharp bladeand a guide batten - for a 165mm saw a 40 to 48 tooth blade would do nicely. By taking the saw to the workpiece you have far more control over the cut. Watch out for embedded ironmongery, e.g. screws, brackets, pins, etc as these can ruin a blade. Not keen on jigsaws for long cuts - even the best can wander a bit. Rail saw nice, but pricey.
Agreed. It's not an easy job to get an acceptable result. I've done a couple. Neither were particularly cheap to do, and I wouldn't accept responsibility for the end result. Too many unknowns.
I wouldn't use a belt sander on an edge personally.
Also:
Make sure the sideboard isn't a valuable antique or something before you start!
 
Guys.. thanks for everybodys input but looking at the replys I am not sure if I want to tackle it .. explained to my daughter.. might just call the pro,s in
 
Could you not take the back off carefully and replace with a temporary sacrificial piece of say MDF?
 
Eddie... if that was all that was required I would be ok with that but it would be protruding out and would look quite naff.. it has a depth of 45cm and she wanted to reduce that to 33cm ... it would have meant cutting 12cm top ,sides and base to a nice neat finish ... and looking at it also I think it would splinter as the coating appears to be a strong clear laminated effect ..if I have described it right
 
If it's a laminated finish you will need a saw with a high tooth count blade. Plunge saws on rails also need the right saw blade - no good going at something like this with a Panther blade on your Festool!
 

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