Replacing faulty PIR floodlight with an existing PIR

Joined
13 Oct 2016
Messages
12
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
I purchased 4 of these (2 for each house) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Floodlight...1_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YXDWDPV1HGS8Q4V3YX4B i got the 50w versions.

All of which have faulty/poor PIR's. To the point of if i wave my hand in front of it, say 30cm away, sometimes the light turns on, and sometimes it doesn't. Anyway, i have got my money back, and the Seller recommended to keep the faulty goods as they are no use to them.

Can i salvage it? The actual light (when it turns on), is incredible.

I already have this PIR fitted http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-180-standalone-pir/36316 powering 4 of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-gls-virtual-filament-led-lamp-clear-bc-7w/4805h

Is there any way i can disconnect the PIR from the floodlight, and connect to my already fitted LAP PIR?
 
Sponsored Links
The sensor module is most likely to have three wires to it, 1) Neutral. 2) Live to the sensor 3) Switched Live from the sensor.

From the LAP 180 PIR sensor extend the Neutral and the Switched Live to the lamps it has to control.

In those lamps disconnect and insulate the existing Live and Neutral supply. Use the Neutral and Switched Live from the remote LAP 180 PIR instead and link the Live and Switched Live at the sensor together to bypass the local PIR The lamp will then alway be on when it is getting power from the LAP 180.

Ensure there is an effective earth conductor along all the cables and lamps and PIRs have an earth cable available.
 
The sensor module is most likely to have three wires to it, 1) Neutral. 2) Live to the sensor 3) Switched Live from the sensor.

From the LAP 180 PIR sensor extend the Neutral and the Switched Live to the lamps it has to control.

In those lamps disconnect and insulate the existing Live and Neutral supply. Use the Neutral and Switched Live from the remote LAP 180 PIR instead and link the Live and Switched Live at the sensor together to bypass the local PIR The lamp will then alway be on when it is getting power from the LAP 180.

Ensure there is an effective earth conductor along all the cables and lamps and PIRs have an earth cable available.

Thanks very much for the detail explanation.

By 'extend' i assume connect? If so, could you advise what cable from here: http://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/cable/cat8960001 i would need please?
 
Sponsored Links
Where is the cable being installed ? Internally or externally.

Most of it is internal, however, the cable from the LAP PIR to the new floodlight will have about 30cm of external viability, the rest will be in the garage ceiling.
 
So I opened up the lights over the weekend, and was going to try hook up to my PIR, however after removing the case I didn't know which wires to disconnect.

Additionally, at the back of the case, there is a small rectangular box where wires from the PIR go in to.

Here are some pics:

If anyone explain what the small black box is, and what wires needs to be disconnected/removed, and where the LAP PIR wires need to go to that would be helpful.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    100.1 KB · Views: 356
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    120.9 KB · Views: 347
  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    104.3 KB · Views: 366
The box in a power unit that converts the 230 volt AC mains into a voltage and current that is sutiable for the LED element in the lamp.

The blue and brown wires to this box are the mains supply to the convertor. The red and grey wire are teh supply to the LED and need not be altered,
Note there is an earth connection to the rear of the LED unit, that must be connected to an effective earth ( the earth wire in the cable )
 
Thank you for the explanation.

Are you able to advise:

1. Which wires need to be removed entirely.
2. Where do the wires from the LAP PIR need to be wired to.
 
Rosoe,
First, please ensure you are capable and able to undertake this type of wiring safely. Not just for yourself, but also for others who may touch this device sometime in the future.
Here is a nice video showing a similar product and how some have no proper termination of the Ground:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbt2ojkXPuo

Regarding your rewiring.

The Cable (made up of the Brown/Blue/Red wires) that goes through the white nut to the PIR is not used at all. So disconnect these three wires from their connecting wires completely. These PIR wires will not need to be used again.

The Cable (made up of the Brown/Blue/Earth(yellow_green) wires) that comes from outside needs to be connected to the two blue cables that go into the LED Driver (the Black block that converts the 240V ac into 12V dc for the LED) and to the case of the Light.

So leave the Blue wire that comes from outside connected to the Blue wire that goes into the LED Driver.
Connect the Brown wire that comes from outside onto the other Blue wire that goes into the LED Driver.
Ensure that the Earth(yellow_green) wire that comes from outside is properly connected to the case of the light (this is critical and should be tested with a multimeter to ensure a low resistance connection).

You should now have:
PIR_Brown >>> no connection (secure safely so wires do not touch anything else)
PIR_Blue >>> no connection (secure safely so wires do not touch anything else)
PIR_Red >>> no connection (secure safely so wires do not touch anything else)
OutsideCable_Brown >>> connected to >>> LED.Driver_Blue
OutsideCable_Blue >>> connected to >>> LED.Driver_Blue
OutsideCable_Yellow/Green >>> connected to >>> To case of lamp and tested for continuity .

sfk
 
Last edited:
Rosoe,
First, please ensure you are capable and able to undertake this type of wiring safely. Not just for yourself, but also for others who may touch this device sometime in the future.
Here is a nice video showing a similar product and how some have no proper termination of the Ground:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbt2ojkXPuo

Regarding your rewiring.

The Cable (made up of the Brown/Blue/Red wires) that goes through the white nut to the PIR is not used at all. So disconnect these three wires from their connecting wires completely. These PIR wires will not need to be used again.

The Cable (made up of the Brown/Blue/Earth(yellow_green) wires) that comes from outside needs to be connected to the two blue cables that go into the LED Driver (the Black block that converts the 240V ac into 12V dc for the LED) and to the case of the Light.

So leave the Blue wire that comes from outside connected to the Blue wire that goes into the LED Driver.
Connect the Brown wire that comes from outside onto the other Blue wire that goes into the LED Driver.
Ensure that the Earth(yellow_green) wire that comes from outside is properly connected to the case of the light (this is critical and should be tested with a multimeter to ensure a low resistance connection).

You should now have:
PIR_Brown >>> no connection (secure safely so wires do not touch anything else)
PIR_Blue >>> no connection (secure safely so wires do not touch anything else)
PIR_Brown >>> no connection (secure safely so wires do not touch anything else)
OutsideCable_Brown >>> connected to >>> LED.Driver_Blue
OutsideCable_Blue >>> connected to >>> LED.Driver_Blue
OutsideCable_Yellow/Green >>> connected to >>> To case of lamp and tested for continuity .

sfk

This is great, thank you.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top