Putting bathroom heater on shower circuit?

Very often an unswitched fused spur in the bathroom out of harms way will be safer than a switched fused spur or a socket.

Usually a wall heater doesn't really require a switch inside or outside the bathroom - as it uually has a pull cord already on it.

Obviously the bathroom safe zones will always apply.
 
Sponsored Links
Op, it would be useful to know how the loft socket is protected at the consumer unit.

It would be good to know the size of fuse or circuit breaker in AMPS.

Also if there is RCD protection already.

It would be useful to check that the socket isn't wired into the lighting circuit, as this won't be man enough for your heater.
 
Sponsored Links
As I've already said, I think that running 'fixed wiring' from a plug is 'orrible ('nasty')!! - but, if you really wanted to do that, you wouldn't need the second FCU (there would be a fuse in the plug).

It's not the "right" way, and I know it would turn up some noses, though it is still safe. I think he would prefer it as it is the easiest option.

The switched FCU was still going to be added outside the bathroom as it would allow isolating the heater without entering the loft, though maybe it could be omitted.

Yes, it was solely to put the RCD in a more accesible and visible location.

This was my suggestion to him, to keep the RCD nore accessible.

Existing 2.5mm T&E spur into loft from sockets circuit > 13A FCU in loft > 2.5mm T&E > existing socket outlet in loft > 2.5mm T&E down from loft > 13A switched RCD FCU outside bathroom > 2.5mm T&E flex to bathroom heater

It doesn't appear there are RCD FCUs with "real" switches, though.
 
Very often an unswitched fused spur in the bathroom out of harms way will be safer than a switched fused spur or a socket.
If, per your suggestion, it were an RCD FCU, it would presumably have to be 'out of zones' as well as 'out of harm's way'?
Usually a wall heater doesn't really require a switch inside or outside the bathroom - as it uually has a pull cord already on it.
Agreed. The one selected by the OP certainly has a pull cord. However, I suspect that some people would nevertheless want/advise some sort of external switch/isolator.

Kind ReEgards, John
 
The switched FCU was still going to be added outside the bathroom as it would allow isolating the heater without entering the loft, though maybe it could be omitted.
OK, but if there were an upstream FCU, you wouldn't need a second one there (just a DP switch would do for isolation) - except that you are probably thinking of an RCD outside the bathroom, and an RCD FCU is the only way you can find of getting that?
It doesn't appear there are RCD FCUs with "real" switches, though.
I don't think I've ever seen one. In fact, as above, what you would ideally have (if there were no RCD FCU in the loft) is just an RCD (not with a built-in FCU), but I don't think I've seen an 'accessory-style' one of those. You could put a regular RCD into a 'small' enclosure, but that would be quite bulky, surface mounted and not very beautiful!

Kind Regards, John
 
If not, then spurring off a socket circuit as suggested may be possible if that is compliant? There is a socketIf not, then spurring off a socket circuit as ? in the loft but unfortunately it is already on a spur...)[/QUOTE Just change it to a twin RCD socket and plug the heater into that.:) easy !

DS[/QUOTE]
Friday night starts early at your place, by the looks of it :mrgreen:
 
Last edited:
OK, but if there were an upstream FCU, you wouldn't need a second one there (just a DP switch would do for isolation) - except that you are probably thinking of an RCD outside the bathroom, and an RCD FCU is the only way you can find of getting that?
I don't think I've ever seen one. In fact, as above, what you would ideally have (if there were no RCD FCU in the loft) is just an RCD (not with a built-in FCU), but I don't think I've seen an 'accessory-style' one of those. You could put a regular RCD into a 'small' enclosure, but that would be quite bulky, surface mounted and not very beautiful!

Kind Regards, John
Yeah, I don't think he would like that on the landing!

I'm going to speak to him again in the morning. He'll probably be happy to omit a switch outside the bathroom altogether, and just put a 13A RCD FCU upstream of the socket, then just have the heater plugged into the standard loft socket, and be done with it.
 
It's rare to see things added to shower circuits, and when you do it has DIY written all over it.
Only because electricians can't think outside of the box well enough to do it. :D:ROFLMAO::mrgreen:

Anyway - next refurb I'm going to do away with it, and have the fan circuit control the shower via a contactor, rather than the other way round, and lose the great clunky shower switch
 
I'm going to speak to him again in the morning. He'll probably be happy to omit a switch outside the bathroom altogether, and just put a 13A RCD FCU upstream of the socket, then just have the heater plugged into the standard loft socket, and be done with it.
I'm already given my views on that :) However, I'm a little unclear as to how this cable is going to get from the heater to this plug/socket in the loft - surely not draped through the bathroom and landing and then through the loft hatch?!!

Kind Regards, John
 
I'm already given my views on that :) However, I'm a little unclear as to how this cable is going to get from the heater to this plug/socket in the loft - surely not draped through the bathroom and landing and then through the loft hatch?!!

Kind Regards, John

Sure. Can always hang wet clothes from the cable to dry out. :whistle:

No, the bathroom walls are studs so he will drill a hole behind the heater and feed it through and up to the loft.
 
Good morning,
Sorry, but i have to ask why you don't just change the single socket in the loft to a twin RCD socket ? It's perfectly acceptable and more cost effective. Fit a good quality plug and use 1.5mm flex to the heater (this is fitted as standard) as i have already said the heater is possibly class 2 (double insulated) and does not require an earth.
You'll have it fitted in 1hour (y)

Kind regards,

DS
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top