Where to put wall thermostat?

Oh thank you very much, the app seems the quick cheap way, but digital frequency meters also seem a good idea, just getting into summer months so I hope being a delay getting it will not be a problem. Today the wall thermostat actually got warmer than set, only by 0.5°C but that is enough, if that happens on a warm day it means heating does not come on which is whole reason for having a wall thermostat.

I am not going to touch the settings now for a few days, it is possible it was just a one off last night and I have done something daft, like move the settings after the time when the setting should alter. So I will just monitor for a few days, and see what it does.

It has been a mad dash to get everything running correct for when mother comes out of rest bite, not having her opening and closing doors, means there was a chance to get things set correct, upstairs seems to work well, my room slightly on the warm side, but likely due to pipes under floor or PC running rather than the TRV setting.
 
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Firstly, Stem, your reasoning on where to put the room stat is faultless, reality however suggest it goes in the room that you want controlled the most, hence the living room. Yes, if the hallway gets cold, and the other rooms are warm enough, then there's no heat for the hallway, but as you only pass throgh the hallway, it isn't desperate if it isn't up to the required temp. Room stats are normally far more accurate that Trvs (not sure about the eTrvs yet) even the newer alcohol filled ones, so always better to balance the system, and then control it from your most used comfort room. But I'm happy to diasgree with you without needing to go any further, I'm not necessarily right, and I doubt if you're wrong either.

Secondly, Ericmark, I can see where you're coming from regarding the so called proffesionals, but at some point, either the Trvs get changed, or the eTrvs get upgraded, or (as per your observations) you'll need to hard wire the room stat into the boiler, so I suspect you'll need to find someone soon.

If I understand how the eTrvs work, the controller (and you haven't mentioned where it is) will tell the eTrvs the time settings and the temperatures for the relevant time periods, but I think they can carry on by themselves after that, so a loss of signal isn't necessarily an issue. But it is for a wireless room stat if there's interference on the chanell being used, and that would explain some of the problems you're got.

Take out the "frost setting" stat, as that's where part of your interference may be coming from; but even if it isn't, they're both trying to control the boiler. Don't bother checking the temperature across the rad, as this'll only work if the rad is perfectly sized for the room, and at the minute, you're trying to get the whole house to work together. If you want to try that trick, do it afterwards.

Agiles right in that you're giving us far too much info, so be kind to us, and try and keep it a bit more compact next time.
 
In your last post you say the installers left all the lockshields fully open. Not a good sign of professionals.
I installed a system last year with around 42 radiators , ALL terrier lockshields are FULLY open coupled with Drayton TR4's , the deltaT @ ALL radiators is uniform , are you insinuating I'm not a professional and that you would have done a better job?...you would be out of scope to carry out the works in any case.
 
Well tonight I am able to confirm it's nothing to do with lock shield valve settings or the thermostat or the TRV's they are all working A1. The problem is simple the eTRV's are not changing temperature as set. Two nights same results, at 8 pm and 10:30 pm the bedroom and the living room eTRV's are set to reduce temperature from 19°C to 16°C before the change target 19°C current 19°C and target 19°C current 18°C at 4:50 am I am recording target 16°C current 19°C and target 16°C current 18°C the temperature in the rooms door closed has not dropped even 1°C with outside temperature of 11.8°C air and in garage 11°C.

The baby alarm shows 21°C in bedroom and the camera shows 18°C in living room confirming the temperature in the two rooms has not dropped. It is clearly a problem with the eTRV's not actually altering set temperature not any of the setting set by the user (me) in hind sight the much cheaper self contained Pegler Terrier i-temp i30 programmable radiator valve at £22.51 each would have done a better job than the Energenie MiHome Smart radiator valve at £72.99 a pair a saving of £27.97 for the pair.

Unfortunately for me, until the general house temperature was held stable with the TRV fitted in the hall I was blaming water flow available to the valves, rather than the valves.

As to the lock shield valve settings, for a central heating system running 24/7 with TRV's on every radiator there is I agree no need to set the lock shield valve, it can be left wide open, they only do any good as the property is warming up from cold, once warm they are not required. Without setting the lock shield valves on warm up you would get the easy flow rooms warm up first and as each TRV starts to close it will force water to remaining rooms all well and good if doors closed, if open you can have a situation where the boiler is getting returned hot water and so is reducing flame height, but the room can't warm up enough because of the open door to turn off the TRV. So if piped in parallel as in domestic then if there is any time clock so system will be starting from cold then you need to set the lock shield valves. With a series piped system as with most commercial premises then you would not want to close down the lock shield valve except for radiator removal.

With 42 radiators I would class it as commercial and likely piped in series rather than parallel, in my own house I have a Myson radiator which would work very well piped in series, with old boiler I have it works OK as return water temperature is not a problem. It needs a wide open lock shield valve as the thermostat is electric and starts and stops the fan. If the lock shield valve is closed every time the fan starts the radiator will quickly cool and the water temperature sensor will switch the fan off again to stop it blowing cold air. This is one of the reasons I have never had a condensate boiler fitted, the Myson would need to be altered to work with a condensate boiler, or ripping out and a massive standard radiator put in to replace it.

However in my mother's house there is no question the lock shield valves should not have been left wide open, although I can see a problem fitting a system in the summer and setting the valves spot on, it is very hard to calculate how much heat will go upstairs, specially with this house with coats hung over the radiator in the hall and a massive heavy curtain which can be drawn around the entrance to the stairs, although curtain no longer used. All the installer can do is close the valve and then open a set amount, he can't really set the valve until winter arrives. But since the system was altered so domestic hot and cold water to shower were direct from mains rather than from a header tank, the shower should have also been changed from a power shower to just thermostat controlled shower, not doing that was not only bad practice it was illegal, so there seems to be a failure on the part of the company to ensure their workers were trained to the required standard.

As an electrical engineer I did not physically do all the work myself, however I was responsible to ensure those under my charge did the work correctly. Nothing wrong with electricians and plumbers mates or apprentices, but the electrician or plumber does need to check what they are doing. The Emma Shaw Case is typical of what happens when the management fails to monitor what is going on. I felt sorry for the foreman, what he asked of the worker was so simple, plug in the meter and write down the readings, I am sure he never considered, that if the meter did not show a reading, that the worker would have asked his mates in canteen what to write down, and fudge up some results, but that is what happened.
 
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reality however suggest it goes in the room that you want controlled the most, hence the living room.
I've fitted a few in living rooms over the years. There are some circumstances where it is the best position, for example when the hallway is very small and heats up too quickly, or it's internal and doesn't cool quickly enough.

There are some caveats that may rule out locating it in the lounge though. If there were another independent source of heat in the room (e.g. a wood burner, or gas fire), it has sunny windows (hallways tend to have less glass), or there is a large family in residence. (by large, I refer to the number of individuals, not their physical size :)) The quantity of heat half a dozen bodies produce can be quite surprising.
 
I installed a system last year with around 42 radiators , ALL terrier lockshields are FULLY open coupled with Drayton TR4's , the deltaT @ ALL radiators is uniform , are you insinuating I'm not a professional and that you would have done a better job?...you would be out of scope to carry out the works in any case.

If you had a G8 ham radio licence, you might understand fluid dynamics better. And keep that keyboard out of reach. I bet you cannot use morse code to fix the fault being discussed. Over and out :p
 
Eric, the way I'm reading this is that you're expecting your eTRV to control the boiler. This is never going to be the case without them being paired someway to a receiver which is in turn connected to the boiler, surely. All you have now with your eTRVs is the ability to choose what temperature at any given period of time during the day/week comes from your radiator/s fitted with them. This takes no real notice of what heat might enter the room from outside sources, hence accuracy of overall room temperature could be wide of the mark compared to your eTRV settings. OK, the radiator might have shut down correctly but heat rising from rooms below, cooking, bodies, TVs etc all add to room temperature overshoot.

Control from eTRVs is minimal and that is if they are fitted correctly. Often the radiator pin isn't controlled enough and the messing about with different thickness spacers is necessary. All rather Heath Robinson.

Your wall thermostat is all that controls your boiler and even with a balanced system you can only expect a fair amount of room temperature accuracy. Pin pointing exact room temperatures isn't really going to happen with separate heat sources thrown into the mix. Knowing a room temperature with these separate heat sources present, allowing you to compensate before temperature overshoot, is the only way to more closely meet your desired room temperature.
 
I got a pair of Energenie MiHome eTRV's and also a pair of sockets and a light switch all which use the same hub, my mother would for years turn down the heating before going to bed, and turn it back up in the morning, but Alzheimers means she does not do that any more, so the eTRV's were to do it for her.

At first I tried using wireless programmable thermostat, but this failed quite dramatically, with temperatures of 16 and 26 being found where coms were lost.

Both living room and bedroom did have stand alone gas fires, it has been temporary removed from bedroom and one in living room rarely used.

I thought and clearly got it wrong that although programmed with the PC router and hub that once this was done all the info was stored in the eTRV, I have complained to Energenie and they have asked for MAC address. But until last night I was not sure if valves playing up, or way it was set up, after last night I am sure it's a fault with the valves.
 
Yes that is valve fitted although it says 4 to 30 degrees C in fact can't set lower than 15, although it does not directly control the boiler it is an ITTT device and can be set to work with NEST using a follow command. There are a number of Apps you can use which claim to follow weather reports and sense when your phone is within so many miles of home to switch the heating up, however it does not seem to be able to do even the simple task of changing temperature at a set time, so not inclined to try and make it do more complex tasks.

Not sure what this link will show I have registered so for me it shows what I have used. The sockets are limited to three timed events, I wanted four, so I used an app to get the extra, it did work, but times limited to on the hour, so removed it again. I to start with used a socket remote control, nothing to do with heating it was all to do with alarms to protect my mother which as fitted needed one to go upstairs to cancel, but with the remote socket some times it did not turn back on, with both timed on/off and remote, if it was not turned back on, it went on anyway at next timed event. It was because I needed the sockets that I got the eTRV's as they all work off the same hub. Main problem is you have to buy these things before you find out their limitations.
 
Call me old fashioned but I was under the general impression that when a roomstat or trv is set, then the thermostat will operate around (plus/minus) the set temperature,its not an exact science.

Cant see how an etrv will be any different.

Good luck,
 
Theory which may not bare out in practice, the eTRV has two sensors and is factory calibrated so the heat of the water compensates the heat of the air measured to give a far more accurate reading of the room temperature to what any purely mechanical device could register. Also the position of the valve is gradually altered as the room temperature goes either higher or lower than the setting until the temperature stabilises.

It clearly knows if water is flowing or not due to water temperature.

I have to admit if the boiler is running then room temperature within 1°C of the setting once the valve has stabilised. However not really measured what non eTRV do.

The MiHome help line tell me my unit has been tested and is OK. I would not be surprised to find tonight it works A1, clearly they have tested the valve over the internet. I'll tell you results in the morning.
 
With 42 radiators I would class it as commercial and likely piped in series rather than parallel, in my own house I have a Myson radiator which would work very well piped in series, with old boiler I have it works OK as return water temperature is not a problem. It needs a wide open lock shield valve as the thermostat is electric and starts and stops the fan. If the lock shield valve is closed every time the fan starts the radiator will quickly cool and the water temperature sensor will switch the fan off again to stop it blowing cold air. This is one of the reasons I have never had a condensate boiler fitted, the Myson would need to be altered to work with a condensate boiler, or ripping out and a massive standard radiator put in to replace it
"series rather than parallel"?......you mean two pipe as opposed to one pipe.
Unless the Myson heater has an output rating greater than 6kw then the lockshield valve shouldn't have to be opened fully unless of course there is a flow rate issue.
 

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