Architrive can it be avoided

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I fitted some top quality internal bifolds. Hardwood etc. The promotional material when displaying the door shows no architrive. Do I really need archtrive?
 

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Someone told me I need to. A small it avoid some cracks
What woody means is that architrave is largely an aesthetic addition rather than a practical one like say skirting, dado or picture rail etc.

It is the relationship betwixt the wood and plaster (which will always crack) that the archies deal with. If you don't mind that then crack on. They also act as a stop end for the skirting boards so I think it will look daft along with the permanent untidy cracked joint.
 
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Show us this promotional material, so we can tell you why it looks finished whereas yours doesn't..
 
I have seen a kind of U channel fitted like a plaster stop - so the movement of the wood is separated from the plaster and the gap is in shadow. No idea what/where you get it though.
 
I don't have architrave for the back patio doors of my house.
There is a conservatory on the other side- there was an aluminium replacement there that I replaced with hardwood.

So inside the plaster goes up straight to the frame
Outside, there is a painted brick wall

No cracks in 10 years
 
If the frame is positioned so that the plaster is returned to the frame i.e. a 90 degree return abutment then you don't have the same problem. It is when the wall plaster and the casing are flush in line that archies are needed.
 
Ah!

Looking at a magnified image I see your point. I guess that thin (strip) wood could be tacked to the frame to bring the frame exactly flush with the wall and filled/painted?
 
I have seen a kind of U channel fitted like a plaster stop - so the movement of the wood is separated from the plaster and the gap is in shadow. No idea what/where you get it though.

Yes, a "shadow gap" is a trendy thing:

https://uk.pinterest.com/kevin0813/shadow-gap-details/

Looks a bit "office" to me, but maybe it suits some domestic styles too.
No idea how to implement it in general.
 
I've got shadow gaps around all my windows. The guy doing the skimming didn't understand it at all, and kept asking what I was going to put in the gap - Foam? Mastic?

This situation, however, probably wouldn't look great as the idea of an SG is that it's a dark line where two perpendicular surfaces meet
 
shadow gaps are usually set up prior to plastering with special beads, also plain L shaped beads that can butt directly to frames.
I suppose you could cut out, retro fit and make good, but without archs you can't have skirts so the junction with the floor also needs sorting
 
shadow gaps are usually set up prior to plastering with special beads, also plain L shaped beads that can butt directly to frames.
I suppose you could cut out, retro fit and make good, but without archs you can't have skirts so the junction with the floor also needs sorting
Actually you can. The skirtings can either end at the SG moulding or they can cross it and end on the frame itself (half and halfed, but requires a thicker casing or a very thin skirting - we've used as thin as 3mm MDF). On the few jobs I've seen these used they have been installed after the casings/linings went in but before any dry lining was done. The dry lining and polastering needs to be spot-on to make them work IMHO. Current project uses them on transitions between new build and old build to disguise the expansion joints. Still looks weird to me, though
 
Actually you can. The skirtings can either end at the SG moulding or they can cross it and end on the frame itself (half and halfed, but requires a thicker casing or a very thin skirting - we've used as thin as 3mm MDF). On the few jobs I've seen these used they have been installed after the casings/linings went in but before any dry lining was done. The dry lining and polastering needs to be spot-on to make them work IMHO. Current project uses them on transitions between new build and old build to disguise the expansion joints. Still looks weird to me, though

Yeah you are right, but thought that might be too complicated for this one. I did some work years ago on a new library and we had to set the SG beads in with the skirting the shadow gaps were 18mm deep and two of the rooms were circular, we had to laminate the skirts up in 3mm layers finishing with a 3mm oak top layer.
Totally agree if the plastering isn't spot on they look awful
 
In this situation it may be best to clamp a straightedge to the wall and use a multi tool to cut a neat line to tidy up the plaster edge. You'll then want to paint insude the gap with black paint to give the illusion of shadow. If at the end of all this it looks carp then put an architrave on. Personally I prefer skirting to end at SGs rather than traverse them (some of my SGs are traversed, some aren't; I didn't fully instruct the joiner who fitted the traversed ones, meanwhile I was fitting skirting in other areas of the house and stopping at the SG. It annoys me, but not enough yet that I want to take the time to pull them off, cut them down and re fix them. One day when I have nothing else on my to-do list... )
 

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