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Recently had a log cabin built, the floors boards are a few mm to long, whats best method to cut them shorter?
Cutting Tongue & Groove Floorboards
- Thread starter snappyfish
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snappyfish, Good evening.
Has the flooring been laid?
With all respect the question is open ended?
Or has the cabin has been erected and the flooring does not fit???
Ken
Has the flooring been laid?
With all respect the question is open ended?
Or has the cabin has been erected and the flooring does not fit???
Ken
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Cabin is up, floorboards not laid and could just fit, but says to allow 3mm gap all round for expansion
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Wood doesn't really expand and contract seasonally along the grain...
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm
0.01% doesn't seem worth trimming the boards down if they already fit!
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm
0.01% doesn't seem worth trimming the boards down if they already fit!
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Wood doesn't really expand and contract seasonally along the grain...
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/2_Wood_Movement/2_Wood_Movement.htm
0.01% doesn't seem worth trimming the boards down if they already fit!
Id say fit with persuasion, they scrape walls of cabin and don't want to force.
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OK, so what tools do you have already that can take off a slither? i.e., not a jigsaw.
A mitre saw would be what I'd go for. You can clamp a scrap of wood to the fence, right up to the blade, then you put the workpiece up to that clamped piece and the amount removed will be the kerf (thickness) of the blade.
Even smaller amounts can be taken off by pressing the workpiece up against the stationary blade, then raise the blade and come back down with it on, you'll remove about 0.5mm each time with that technique. It depends on the play in the saw's bearings, etc.
A mitre saw would be what I'd go for. You can clamp a scrap of wood to the fence, right up to the blade, then you put the workpiece up to that clamped piece and the amount removed will be the kerf (thickness) of the blade.
Even smaller amounts can be taken off by pressing the workpiece up against the stationary blade, then raise the blade and come back down with it on, you'll remove about 0.5mm each time with that technique. It depends on the play in the saw's bearings, etc.
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