Help no hot water!
- Thread starter Kezz90
- Start date
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East is right. You have air in the rads. Just go buy a brass vent key, turn the heating and water off at the timer and vent them with a cloth. There's no air lock as the rads are hot at the bottom.
Talking about the bypass valve. Have you read what the op wrote. X2 rad are cold? Majority warm at the bottom cold at the top. Previous I said make sure the valves are open. Then vent. Then if the still don't get warm shut the valves that are working fine off. Also the bypass and the tap stat has the water would just circulate round there.
My training?? YouTube yeah mate. Big man behind a keyboard ain't ya firemanT. Prat
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Yeah, could be the bypass fully open and robbing the heat circuit of flow. Personally, id bleed the rads first and take it from there. There's always more than one way of working, bro.
There's no one questioning your training here.....
Picture of the pipework looks like solid floor so on drops. It has to be a airlock on the drop. Each to there own but I wouldn't start throwing qoutes about other lads been wrong. When Infact I ain't.
D
Doggit
Well going back to the plumbers proffesionalism, obviously the OP hasn't posted any pictures of the job, but my query is why he didn't slice the nail hole, and use a slip ring etc. I'd even have suspected an emergency plumber to have a freezing machine, to save the system being drained. £90 an hour is fine if the jobs done quickly, but this one doesn't seem to have been. There are a lot of guys that I know that will say that having drained the system, the water will stay in the rads because there's no air getting into the rad to allow it to drain out, but I'd say that as a matter of course, a quick check of the rads should have been done. And if he was certain that the rads didn't need bleeding, he should have been looking for the problem elsewhere, not telling the OP that he'll have to charge for it.
And yes, it almost looks as though someones used a remote rad valve to control the temp of the cylinder, but it looks open (which it maybe should be) so should be running all the time, and if the
Now it's interesting reading the different way that some of you bleed rads; I personally do it half hot, and that seems to help shift any air locks if there are any. If the rads are hot at the bottom, and cold at the top, then they need bleeding, so his response is a bit odd. Would I be cynical in suggesting that the plumbers turned something off, and won't admit it; and I'd hate to think that he's waiting for the addittional work to then suddenly fix it.
Kezz, do you have legal cover on your household insurance?
fekme its simple
1 .bleed rads
2. heating only on see what rads dont get hot
3.close every rad off except one cold one if air still doesnt shift close the bypass as bella says (valve looks ok and gently close it)
4. repeat for each still cold rad
5 have all down stairs rads on make sure they all heat
6 turn upstairs rads on all hot reopen bypass if closed by 1 or 2 turns
7 leave for a bit making sure all stays hot turn off and bleed all again.
.
1 .bleed rads
2. heating only on see what rads dont get hot
3.close every rad off except one cold one if air still doesnt shift close the bypass as bella says (valve looks ok and gently close it)
4. repeat for each still cold rad
5 have all down stairs rads on make sure they all heat
6 turn upstairs rads on all hot reopen bypass if closed by 1 or 2 turns
7 leave for a bit making sure all stays hot turn off and bleed all again.
.
D
Doggit
I know what you mean. With such a basic set of instructions, he'll turn the wrong valve on the rad, and then bugger it all up.
As hard as it is to say there is the voice of reason and simple way to sort this out .
Well done mate for explaining it in laymans terms to the OP, instead of going off on a tangent like some in here
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