Parents boiler wasn't firing. ( I know who wants the heating on in this weather!). Pump appeared to be not working. I done some searches on here and carried out a test on it with a digital multimeter. I understand I should have had a reading of 120 to 200 ohms . Nothing like so I pronounced the pump dead but before signing the death certificate I applied 240 volts direct to the pump and it started up. Now I'm not so sure. It did get really hot in a short space of time without any hot water flowing through it. Any advice you guys can give on this. Would a pump that failed the multimeter test still be able to start up?
Duff pump????
- Thread starter flemsbog
- Start date
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B
breezer
just curious, what reading did you get, and it may have got hot because the valves were closed (becasue heating not required)
That depends on how you tried to test it !!!
I would say that with an external supply making it work then it is OK but your testing technique is not.
Its really pretty stupid to operate it without water which cools and lubricates the bearings. I hope you have not damaged it!
Tony
I would say that with an external supply making it work then it is OK but your testing technique is not.
Its really pretty stupid to operate it without water which cools and lubricates the bearings. I hope you have not damaged it!
Tony
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B
breezer
but what range was the meter set at , and wer you holding the leads? 0 imlies a dead short it whaich case it would have gone bang
i dont think the pump would have been dry since as i said as heating not required at least one valve would have been shut, so your pump will run, but not beable to pump to any where
i dont think the pump would have been dry since as i said as heating not required at least one valve would have been shut, so your pump will run, but not beable to pump to any where
No if you didn't take it out then it would have been wet!
Did your meter really say "0.00"? ie zero ohms. They don't usually, because of the resistance of the leads. (Weren't on the wrong range were you?) If it was saying " OL" that means very high resistance - ie no connection ie open circuit or your leads weren't making contact. Switch could be faulty/intermittent or between the clicks.
Did your meter really say "0.00"? ie zero ohms. They don't usually, because of the resistance of the leads. (Weren't on the wrong range were you?) If it was saying " OL" that means very high resistance - ie no connection ie open circuit or your leads weren't making contact. Switch could be faulty/intermittent or between the clicks.
Meter set on 200k. Mains cable to pump removed and test leads inserted into pump connections. The readings fluctuated a bit, sometimes a positive value, sometimes a minus but nowhere near the required 120-200, I settled on the '0' as a term of reference. I tested several times to make sure I had a good connection. Pump was not removed and no valves have been touched.
Did you disconnect the motor before testing it?
What type of system do you have? Combi/Gravity? (I could be asking daft questions but hey, I ain't a plumber) What controls the motor? I have seen it before where the motorised valve has gone wrong so it doesn't open and make the switch hence the pump doesn't start.
What type of system do you have? Combi/Gravity? (I could be asking daft questions but hey, I ain't a plumber) What controls the motor? I have seen it before where the motorised valve has gone wrong so it doesn't open and make the switch hence the pump doesn't start.
B
breezer
since 2k is the lowest you have little choice
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