change mitre saw blade

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Hi all, years ago (12 years?) I got a Pioneer mitre saw from B&Q for about 17 quid. Not in daily use or anything but it did a lot of work on what I wanted - construction timber. I went to replace the blade recently but I couldn't undo the bolt (broke a socket driver trying!). I have other spanners / sockets etc but I don't really know if i'm turning it the right way - maybe it's left-hand thread, maybe not. I don't want to use a lot more force until I know which way is loosening! Any advice please?
Regards, Terry.
 
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Also - i'm cutting wood for picture framing. The mitre angles are very accurate, no complaints there, but I'm getting fuzzy edges of the cut on the outside faces of the wood. Thinking (a) the blade is old / blunt and (b) maybe I should use a fine cut crosscut blade?
Terry.
 
You normally have to turn them clockwise to unscrew, but put a bit of WD40 on it for a few days just in case.
 
Ah thanks Doggit I'll apply some WD40. Yes, clockwise would be reverse i.e. left-hand thread.
Any suggestions for a blade? Am I right in thinking thinner kerf, more teeth sort of thing? Freud get recommended but are pricey.
Regards, Terry.
 
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Freud blades are good, but the number of teeth will depend on the sort of wood you're cutting. If it's just ripping wood, then 28 teeth, if you're doing fine work, then 80 want an 80 tooth blade. But that all depends on the size of the blade, and a large blade needs more teeth to get a fine cut, and a small blade needs less.

I've found Aldi blades are good and amazingly cheap, but you didn't mention the size, or the make.
 
To solve the break out issue, just use a sacrificial board over/behind where the breakout is occurring. Make sure its all secured properly before cutting. I tend to use a sacrificial fence (countersunk screwed on to the saws built in fence) and table most of the time. MDF is best, say 12mm, as it's likely to stay nice and flat. Not nice dust though, so you'll want some extraction or to be outside.

As Doggit says, a finer blade is best for such work and should be used in conjunction with the above for perfect results.

I also agree Freud blades tend to offer the best bang for buck. I been using a 40t freud pro for almost everything lately. They arent badly priced considering how long they last.
 
Doggit, justbigboned, thanks for your advice, I shall take it on board. BTW I wrongly remembered the bolt holding the blade being a normal bolt i.e. one you could spanner. But taking another look, it's the sort that takes an Allen key. I've put some of the magic WD40 on and I'll have a go clockwise.
Yeah if you sandwich the work between two sacrificial pieces clamped up tight it gives a clean cut but this work is profiled so can't sandwich on the profiled side. A local tool place say they will fit a new blade so if all else fails I'll let them worry about it, probably only cost a few quid more than the blade itself :)
Regards,
Terry.
 
Doggit, justbigboned, I got the blighter out! It turns clockwise as said above.
I just got another blade, a 48T Erbauer, it was on offer at Screwfix. I'll give that a go tomorrow.
I want to cut 45 degree mitres for picture frames. A test run with the original blade was fine angle-wise but a bit furry as I mentioned above. The real thing will of course have to be cut to specific dimensions. I'll report back ....
Regards, Terry
 
Hmm, new blade cutting fine - visible and feelable difference between cuts made with old blade and those made with new one. The edges and exposed faces of the cuts with the new blade are really smooth.
Thank you for your advice. If there was a button like some forums seem to have to say "thanks", or "question answered", or "give these guys points" I'd click it but I can't see one....
Regards, Terry.
 
Now you need new glasses. Move you're cursor over to the right, and it should appear half way down the post. Glad you're solved it, and you're happy. Well done.
 
Doggit, sorry about delay, festive season and all!
I'll have a look.
Season's greetings from Terry.
 

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