New Radiator Cold

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Hi Guys,

Replaced radiator in bedroom (upstairs, combi boiler also upstairs),
could not bleed the old radiator as bleed screw was damaged, so radiator not worked for sometime.

New radiator not heating up,
I've bled the radiator,
I've drained the system a few times to make sure no air locks,
I've turned off all other radiators,
I've changed the TRV to just a standard radiator valve.
But radiator stays cold all over.

Any ideas to what could be causing this?

I had to add two 8mm straight couplers at either side of the radiator to extend the pipework,
could I have caused a solder block on one of the sides?
and would this be an easy fix?

Thanks
 
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Sounds like a blockage / valve failure. Take rad off and open lockshield ,into a bucket or connect to hose ,check flow. Do same on other valve if lockshield flow is OK. Top up pressure to 1 bar. Report back what results you got
 
Terry

New Rad came with a TRV and Lockshield,
The side with the lockshield does not seem blocked,
water flows okay on that side, I bled the Rad with this side open.
there did not seem like any water flow on the side with the TRV as I could not bleed the Rad,
so I fitted a standard on /off Rad valve on that side (still no water flow).

So I think I may have Blocked it with solder (8mm straight coupler)?

Thanks.
 
Possible ,but you would have had to have gone really overboard with the solder. Small 8 mm microbore pipe is the easiest to block up with system gunge .as the old rad had not been in use for some time there would be no flow in the pipe ,and a build up of magnetite is more likely .maybe at the manifold ( if fitted ). Do you have a magnetic filter on the system ?
 
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Can't see anything else in the cupboard with the Combi Boiler/ pipework, its a performa 28 Combi Boiler.
 
Probably not got a filter then ,they are several inches high and about 4 inch diameter ,affixed to the pipework below the boiler. Don't know how much of the pipework from the rad is easily accessible ,usually not much without taking up floor coverings and floorboards , but you could get a very strong magnet and slowly move it over the copper pipe. When you come to a point where there is a solid build up of magnetite ,it will attract the magnet. You could then drain out and cut in a new section of pipe.other possible avenues to explore ,if you don't fancy all the upheaval of flooring up etc ,is to add a chemical cleaner and give it time to work for a week or two. Powerflushing is another ,but its expensive and in my opinion not brilliant on 8 mm microbore systems.
 
Thanks Terry,

There is about 6" of pipework above the floor,
it is laminate flooring that is down, so a bit of work to lift floorboards.

Tried the magnet, found nothing.

I then removed the pipe from the valve, and put a rod down the pipe,
about 3" down it hit something like a blockage (just below the straight coupler I added).

Do I cut the pipe and add a new joint somewhere below the blockage? I don't have much pipe to play with.

Thanks
 
Did you put rod downward ,to below floor level ?? You may have just come to a bend ? Can you post a pic
 
Tricky one as you don't know how far down its blocked. Are you saying the rod comes to a stop 3 inch from top of pipe ? If so try maybe a six inch long screw ,try screwing into whatever it is ,drag a sample out maybe. Carefully as you go ,not to puncture pipe. A needle file is what I would use though.
 
The Blockage starts at the bottom Red marker.
Tried a screw nail but did not catch.
 

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You have certainly gone overboard with the solder ,that may well be the cause.the pipe doesn't look the best condition either. I would re heat the coupler ,( de solder it ) and remove. You should then be able to see the blockage.
 
You have certainly gone overboard with the solder ,that may well be the cause.the pipe doesn't look the best condition either. I would re heat the coupler ,( de solder it ) and remove. You should then be able to see the blockage.
(y)
 

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