Damp after getting slate roof and guttering replaced.

Hi


I am looking for some advice on my guttering.

I have recently replaced my slate roof. I am no expert but I think the roofer did an OK job on it. I do not think was the guttering was a good job though.

I now have damp. Ironically I had never had a leak or damp in the house until I had the roof replaced! Anyway I told him about the damp that I was getting in the corner of the house and he just put a load of sand cement in the corner where the guttering meets the side of the house? He also drilled a hole in my sandstone coins to hold the gutter and smashed it rather than drill into the render between the bricks 4 inches higher but that’s another story.



The original guttering ,channelled water from the main roof straight into a soak. The roofer explained that this was not needed

This is where the original pipe was that led to the soak...excuse the mess...I work full time and have a young family.






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so he left the pipe disconnected and now has the whole side of the roof is draining straight through a gutter pipe onto the top of another lean to roof, down the slate roof and then along a gutter (instead on piped straight into the soak).


Where the roof drains onto the lean to and then into a gutter (where the cement was bodged in) I am getting very damp walls.



I just think that this section of the gutter is overwhelmed by the amount of water from this whole side of the roof. I have cleaned out the guttering and disconnected the pipe so that the water can exit as fast as possible but I am still getting lots of damp.





So I think I need to put it back to how it was so I think I need to buy some straight lengths of guttering and some elbows to connect back up to the soak. I need help on the type of offset for the elbows and connectors to buy?
Do you think my theory is right about the amount of water that is hitting that corner?

Any useful advice on how to tackle this gratefully received!

First get the damaged slates replaced, there are several broken and or holed.
The verge has no overhang , there are signs that indicate it did have once
re connect the down pipe to its original position by using more pipe and offsets
looks like it spills out on the ground near a gulley to me?
where the gutter is leaking in the corner get the soaker from the roof modified to steer water into it , not behind it.
in fact i would say chuck it all away and start again. Its not rocket science.
then importantly get the brickwork pointed.
and if you are feeling kind, buy the roofer a new trowel the mortar work is very poor. I would guess excess cement in the mix too

By the way I am guessing the roof in question is the leanto in the pictures

Hi. Thanks for your thoughts.Yeah the lean to in the picture is the roof section where the damp is coming in. The main roof got replaced and not the lean to!
What is a verge that you are referring to?
So the black pipe that drains onto the lean to picture 3 I will put an off set on to connect to the original cast iron pipe in picture 2 so that no water from the main roof will hit the lean to that is my plan? Do you know roughly what offsets i will need i think i will need three and some pipe? I was going buy some lime and have a crack at the pointing and avoid the cement.

Right so I want to check that I need to get something like this.....?
FloPlast 112.5° Offset Bend 68mm Black


and some of this
FloPlast Downpipe 68mm x 2.5m Black (25256)



and some clips
FloPlast Half Round Clips 68mm Black 10 Pack (92850)



do you think that should do for starters to re route the pipe?

shall I get some to do you think?
FloPlast 92.5° Offset Bend 68mm Black (53298)

cheers

112° is normal but its impossible to tell you what
you need if we don't know the route the pipe will take!

Why isn't the roofer coming back to fix it?

Ok thanks. i appreciate it is hard to tell from the pictures. The roofer tried to fix it by dolloping a lump of cement in the corner. I should get him back round as i paid enough but he will just say he will pop round and won't turn up so i am going do it myself. I won't use him again.
The fittings are not expensive so will get a few.

If his idea of fixing something is a blob of cement
then you are better off rid of him.

The downpipe should not discharge vertically as this will allow water to be forced up the roof as well as washing out mortar on the wall, it should have an elbow and be directed away from the wall , the area where he has dumped cement should have had the lead work dressed to direct the water away from wall into gutter .

The down pipe shouldn't have been put there in the first
place, it isn't slated well enough not to leak.

Well I finally got around to looking at this. I bought some lengths of pipe and some elbows and had a go at putting it back similar to how it was. I have not fully secured all the brackets yet as I am having a go at some pointing using lime (using NHL 3.5) next weekend.Hopefully this will stop the damp in that corner. Agree that the solution to dollop cement really means that he is out the equation for sorting this!
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I am going to have to replace a couple of bricks where cement has been used instead of lime it has blown the bricks




so I have removed the old cement pointing. I think the cast iron wall ties have rusted ans swelled causing issue here. I was just going to leave them and re- point?

The down pipe needs to come straight down as it was
before ideally, one of those off sets is upside down!

You mean straight down without any bends in it? All the other downpipes go into soaks also. The way it was crrated the damp. I have put it back similar to how it was originally i think. Does it matter if offset is ipside down i have put some small screws to hold the end on some of them. Surely if it is water tight the water will just flow down. I am no expert hence the questions.

robbie77 said:

You mean straight down without any bends in it? All the other downpipes go into soaks also. The way it was crrated the damp. I have put it back similar to how it was originally i think. Does it matter if offset is ipside down i have put some small screws to hold the end on some of them. Surely if it is water tight the water will just flow down. I am no expert hence the questions.

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What you should have done is replace the swaneck coming out of the gutter. Fit a new swaneck long enough so your vertical can run all the way down to near the ground, then fit a 92.5 deg bend to go across to the gully.

Notch7 said:

What you should have done is replace the swaneck coming out of the gutter. Fit a new swaneck long enough so your vertical can run all the way down to near the ground, then fit a 92.5 deg bend to go across to the gully.

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Yeah. I see what you mean now you put it like that. I may redo that bit.
Thanks

I have swapped the offset around and now it does not leak anymore