Independent C30: Flow Turbine – Turbine Sensor - Diverter Valve or ?

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Hi All,

We seem to have lost our DHW from our C30 this evening. Hasn't been an issue before.

With CH burner ignites as required and all seems OK but we have no DHW - Burner just doesn't ignite.

Can't see any LED flashing or illuminated on top of the sensor when hot water taps turned on so wondering if its a dead sensor but any thoughts would be appreciated ?

Boiler was installed before we moved into the property and whilst it's on our radar to swap at some point would prefer to keep things going a bit longer.

Thanks for any input.
 
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as @shambolic says new turbine time, dont be in too much of a rush to change the boiler, there are worse boilers out there.
 
Thanks for the input – picked one up locally today and fitted. Sadly no change, still no DHW.

Is it going to be the actual sensor on top of the turbine that could be the culprit ? I can't see any LED illuminated or flashing on top with flow.

Rgds
 
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Follow up to my own post above I went back out for a sensor and that seems to have worked but whether it was that alone I don't know now as the new turbine is in – either way we now have DHW again ! (and initially it seems a little hotter to me)

Thanks
 
You’ll be back I gave you the correct part number. 175661
The turbine will be running slow and intermittently sticking. I have only replaced one hall sensor in last 9 years of working on Logics and that was water damaged.
It’s always the turbine.
 
Hi Shambolic - thanks, yes I did fit a new turbine (175661) initially but didn't seem to sort it and I couldn't see the red LED solid or flashing when taps turned on.

It now has a new turbine and sensor and all appears ok.

There also seems to have been a leak looking at the bottom of the casing - it's dry at the moment but I've seen mention that the plastic sump is suspect to small cracks - is that something you have come across ?

Thanks again for the input appreciated.
 
Yes the sump can crack at the front behind the cover plate.
 
Yes the sump can crack at the front behind the cover plate.
True, I've mistakenly replaced the cover & seal on a couple of boilers to no effect, including my own. A coating of Araldite over the (minute) crack solved mine, left unrepaired the acidic condensate will rapidly rot the casing and condemn the whole boiler if the casing perforates.
 
Yes the sump can crack at the front behind the cover plate.

Thanks again Shambolic - I've now picked up a new replacement sump (not cheap !) - will look to replace as soon as I can although it looks like a little more work to gain access.

Rgds
 
True, I've mistakenly replaced the cover & seal on a couple of boilers to no effect, including my own. A coating of Araldite over the (minute) crack solved mine, left unrepaired the acidic condensate will rapidly rot the casing and condemn the whole boiler if the casing perforates.

Thanks for the input Meldrewsmate - it doesn't seem to be leaking at the moment although there does appear to be a fault line close to the sump cover. I have a new one as mentioned above to replace.

Rgds
 
Thanks for the input – picked one up locally today and fitted. Sadly no change, still no DHW.

Is it going to be the actual sensor on top of the turbine that could be the culprit ? I can't see any LED illuminated or flashing on top with flow.

Rgds
 
Had a problem with ideal logic combi 24 luke warm water coming from all taps. Replaced flow turbine and checked heat exchanger for blockages. Also replaced cartridge on diverter valve. Does anyone know if the hall sensor should flash when hot water on on stay solid?
 

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