wooden window frames

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Shropshire
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I want to replace my windows and I am opting for wood. Apart from Oak (which are too expensive) I was looking for suggestions as to which type of wood would be my best option. I want to try and avoid wood which will move, swell, rot etc.
 
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Stained or painted?

Stained:
European oak
Accoya
Iroko
Idigbo
Sapele
Red Grandis
Meranti

Painted:
Accoya
Iroko
Sapele
Siberian larch
Douglas fir
Red Grandis
Meranti

I make mostly painted joinery, with Engineered Siberian larch, Accoya glazing beads, iroko cills.

Accoya is same price as oak but most stable

Meranti is a budget option.

Idigbo often used as a mock oak.

The others all similar price.

Iroko very durable, stable in service
Siberian larch and douglas fir pretty durable, stable in service

Sapele is a commonly used hardwood for window manufacture, not a bad timber, less durable than iroko.

TBH lifespan and stability of windows depends as much on design, detailing and hardware as timber used.
 
I really don’t like pvc windows and they wouldn’t be in keeping in my house. I appreciate some pvc windows try to emulate wood but the end of the day plastic is plastic. Not for me I’m afraid.
 
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I commend your resolve to get proper windows. uPVC is a blight on the nation's architectural heritage
 
Hear hear!

Of course I would agree, I make timber windows.
You are my hero.

All my windows were joiner-made, and none was expensive considering the quality. The only remaining plastic disfiguring my house is the front guttering and downpipe, and its days are numbered. I re-did the back in cast aluminium.
 
The joiner I am using said that which ever wood I choose he uses a process where all the wooden components will be pre-treated ( not sure of the name of the process) so that, together with a couple of coats of good quality linseed paint should help preserve the life of the windows.
 
You are my hero.

All my windows were joiner-made, and none was expensive considering the quality. The only remaining plastic disfiguring my house is the front guttering and downpipe, and its days are numbered. I re-did the back in cast aluminium.

You can get the cast look in PVC now you know, no painting every 2 years on south facing elevations
 
You can get the cast look in PVC now you know, no painting every 2 years on south facing elevations

No need to paint every 2 years on timber windows in south facing elevations.......

Accoya timber painted could last 12 years.

Im just about to send a decorator around to a large conservatory 8 years old. Customer wants a few bits, like bottom beads and cills filled and painted. He doesnt want the whole thing repainted, it doesnt need it.
 
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You can get the cast look in PVC now you know, no painting every 2 years on south facing elevations
Yes, lovely "cast look" (from 100 yards) plastic hoppers that go wavy after a year in sunlight. No thanks.

Cast aluminium is lovely. Comes powder coated in any RAL colour, looks as good as cast iron but weighs so little that one person installation is a doddle.
 
Yes, lovely "cast look" (from 100 yards) plastic hoppers that go wavy after a year in sunlight. No thanks.

Cast aluminium is lovely. Comes powder coated in any RAL colour, looks as good as cast iron but weighs so little that one person installation is a doddle.

To be fair, the imitation Bret Martin range is pretty good, at least on the downpipes and some of the hoppers. We often use them on orangeries and colour match them to the orangery colour. The plastic is hardly a cheap option though.

On listed buildings and where the customer wants to pay the extra, aluminium is the best option. cast iron is so flipping heavy!
 

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