Barge board - what wood?

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Soon to be adding barge boards and other wood trims. Will be painted to match the rest of the house.

If it’s going to be painted, is pine suitable? Going to have to be 10” wide so what’s a suitable thickness? 1”? It’s south facing so gets a lot of sun. Hoping not to have the wood warp.
 
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An awful lot of work to update the rest. Plus I’m not really a fan of plastic. It’s a traditional house and wood would fit in very nicely. The other wood was painted many many years ago and still looks fine.
 
what lengths are you lokin for?1" x 10" DF has a tendency to cup when used in long lengths. best practice is to pre paint before fixing - pink, u/coat x 2, and top coat.
paint both sides an both edges an cuts.

sometimes its best to use rippings of 3/4" or 25mm ply treated as above.

thing is 3 x screws at each fixing is best but what is the barge board being fixed to?
do you have the roof off?
can you post photos of the gables
 
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10 inch wide if actual 10" will need to be ex 11" as you loose around 4mm +1mm per extra inch off the the width through planing
as in 6"=143 7"=168 8"=192 9"=216mm 10"= 240mmX21mm if you can get it
i would laminate together 2x4" 1x3"at 94x2=188+69=257 and run it down
just remember to alternate the planks cup up/down/up
 
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1” Ply is an option. Whatever I use I shall fully paint before install. Lengths are 8’ per side so not too long. Will be fixed to a 4x2 end rafter.
 
If it were my house I would use some plastic packers to keep the new fascia
off the 4x2 rafter because if you use ply or pine I wouldn't give it more than
6 or 7 yrs.
 
If it were my house I would use some plastic packers to keep the new fascia
off the 4x2 rafter because if you use ply or pine I wouldn't give it more than
6 or 7 yrs.
Why packers to keep it off the rafter?

Also, why do you give it such a short life expectancy? The rest of the house barge boards are 100 years old and in pretty good nick.
 
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Also, why do you give it such a short life expectancy? The rest of the house barge boards are 100 years old and in pretty good nick.

Because that is old slow grown timber, not the rubbish you get now. My last house had its original 130 year old timber sash windows which were completely solid despite years of neglect. My Dad's 1980's mahogany frames were rotten after 20 years even with regular coatings of Sikkens.

I know they're not designed for the job but have you considered cement boards - Hardie or Cedral etc.
 
Hmmmm.... a friend at work said similar. Old slow grown timber compared to the box wood grown today.

Looks like a decision needs to be made whether to have a sacrificial wood barge board or another material.
 

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