Two 15w LED security lights blowing 3A fuse.

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Hi all,

As title, I have two 15W LED PIR security lights running through a switched FCU and they are blowing the 3A fuse within in. I would have thought 3A was way more than capable of handling that load, is there something I'm missing?

A bit more detail if you've got this far:

We've recently had the house extended and the lighting circuit was added on to a spare way in the CU on a B6 RCBO. The builders also ran some cables through the roof void for me to add some security lights at a later stage, leaving them unconnected either end.

Fast forward a few weeks and I fitted a pair of 15W LED PIR lights, wiring them through an exterior rated junction box since the lamps have a fixed flying lead. A colleague/friend/qualified electrician then came and connected these up to the CU for me, to the new B6 RCBO, and through a 3A switched FCU so that I could override the PIR and have them on permanently if I wanted. Tested briefly and they were working fine.

I never thought any more of it, but having gone out in the dark for the first time the other night the lights weren't working, and it seems the 3A fuse had blown. I swapped it out and they came on but went out within a second and won't come back on. The RCBO has never tripped though which seems strange.

Unfortunately said electrician is abroad on his jollies so don't want to disturb him, so wondered if anyone has any advice in the meantime please.

Thanks in advance,
Andy.
 
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What type of lamps are they ? Knowing the type of lamps amd exactly how they were connected is necessary before any diagnosis can be attempted.
 
Sorry, I thought I'd already gone on long enough.

The lamps are these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-guardian-led-floodlight-pir-black-15w-warm-white/1633v

A single 1.5mm T&E run from the CU to the FCU, then on through the roof void to one lighting location. Another cable daisy chains from this location across the roof void to the other.

I used IP55 junction boxes https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-4-entry-junction-box-with-knockouts-grey-65-x-65-x-45mm/63295
connecting the wires using 15A choc blocks (probably not the best but that's all I had)

Thanks.
 
Are you sure the fuse(s) had blown? Have you tested them?

"it seems the 3A fuse had blown. I swapped it out and they came on but went out within a second and won't come back on."
sounds more like the lights just aren't working.
 
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Pretty poor electrician. FCUs are not used or required on lighting circuits which are adequately protected via a 6amp MCB or RCBO.
Also why did he use oversize cable when 1.0mm is all that is required?

But you need to test the removed fuses to check they have actually blown. Got a multimeter, or a battery and bulb? If not you could check them by fitting them in something else that has a 3 amp fuse.

If they have blown there must be an overload type fault, either in your wiring or the lamps themselves. If you can't find it you will have to wait till your electrician returns.
 
Also interested to know how the FCU is connected so "it overrides the PIR".
 
Yes but which wires in the T&E cable did you connnect to which terninals in the lamps ?
Not sure if you are serious but I went the standard route, live to live, neutral to neutral, earth to earth (/cpc).

Pretty poor electrician. FCUs are not used or required on lighting circuits which are adequately protected via a 6amp MCB or RCBO.
Also why did he use oversize cable when 1.0mm is all that is required?

But you need to test the removed fuses to check they have actually blown. Got a multimeter, or a battery and bulb? If not you could check them by fitting them in something else that has a 3 amp fuse.

If they have blown there must be an overload type fault, either in your wiring or the lamps themselves. If you can't find it you will have to wait till your electrician returns.

As I mentioned, builders ran the cables, not the electrician. Since it is oversized rather than undersized for the application he thought it perfectly adequate to use.

The reason for the FCU is mentioned also, to override the PIR function. I'm sure I could have just used a switch but didn't have one to hand. By cycling the switch off/on/off/on it overrides the PIR function and set the lamps to come on whenever the daylight levels drop. Handy if we are sitting outside so we don't have to keep jumping up and waving our hands like lunatics to activate the PIR and switch the lamps back on. Seems a pretty common feature on many lamps so didn't feel the need to explain.

I'll dig out my multimeter and do a continuity check on the old fuses just to be 100%. My main boggle is why it would blow a relatively slow blowing fuse before the RCBO tripped, if it was an overload?
 
Not sure if you are serious but I went the standard route, live to live, neutral to neutral, earth to earth (/cpc).
Not being funny, but did you positively identify L/N/E, or just go by colours?


Since it is oversized rather than undersized for the application he thought it perfectly adequate to use.
He was correct. Despite what some people would wish you to believe there is no requirement to always use the smallest cable possible.
 
Not being funny, but did you positively identify L/N/E, or just go by colours?

I just went by the colours.

I guess now that you make me think about it I was assuming the manufacturer had wired them correctly internally. Since they are a sealed unit with flying lead and warnings about opening the unit invalidating the warranty, it was the best I could do.
 
Not sure if you are serious but I went the standard route, live to live, neutral to neutral, earth to earth (/cpc).

One should not assume that the Brown and Blue in T&E are Brown ( switched ) Live, Blue Neutral.

Some PIR and Lamp combinations have three wires, Live, Neutral and Switched Live ( this switched Live is from switch in PIR to the lamp ). and No Earth
 
One should not assume that the Brown and Blue in T&E are Brown ( switched ) Live, Blue Neutral.

Some PIR and Lamp combinations have three wires, Live, Neutral and Switched Live ( this switched Live is from switch in PIR to the lamp ). and No Earth
Ah, I see. My apologies, I understand your question now.

The wiring instructions for the lamps were:
Live=Brown
Neutral=Blue
Earth=G/Y

So within the junction boxes I followed that pattern.

At the other end of the T&E my friend followed that pattern on the load side of the FCU, and the same from the consumer unit/RCBO to the supply side of the FCU
 
Update:

I sent the guy an email on the off chance and he's replied with a few things for me to try until he gets back from his holiday. Basically check my wiring in the JB, then disconnect one lamp at a time to rule out a faulty unit/ LED driver.

Hopefully it's something as simple as that.

Thanks for all the replies and I'll update again when we've resolved the problem.
 

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