Suspended ceiling

my garage
Trussed roof trusses at 600 crs
Inside dimensions 5400 x 2800

I want to use 1200x600 grid with main T’s running across and connecting T’s running longways
And the tiles to run longways as well
This means the connecting T’s will need to be 1200 to give the 1200 x 600 grid.
There will be a surround angle on all 4 garage walls which are block work
How to fix these would be good to know
I would proposed fixing the main T’s at the centre of the span (1400mm)
The tiles would be 1200x600 wipeable
The ceiling will be dropped down 100 mm from the roof trusses

For the fellows who know this type of work, please can you comment
I haven’t tried this before
Cheers
GEOF

Assume you're asking how you attach supports ? What we did was as follows for each point where we wanted to attach suspension points:
Screw 2x1 batten across joists so that middle is vertically above the point you want to suspend - drill vertical hole through wood just a little wider than wire diameter. Take section of steel wire long enough to span the distance between suspension point and batten plus a few inches either side. Straighten it using electric drill and vice. Bend right angle at one end with few inches to spare, put it through suspension point then twist a few times round on itself. Other end goes through hole in batten. Pull wire through batten, take strain on suspension grid until get level you want. Then cut off an electrical terminal block piece (the one with two screws for connecting wires, decent size, eg 16A), put it over top end of wire and slide down to batten then tighten up to hold wire in place. Convoluted maybe but it does work and we've held up a few ceilings this way.

coylumbridge said:

Assume you're asking how you attach supports ? What we did was as follows for each point where we wanted to attach suspension points:
Screw 2x1 batten across joists so that middle is vertically above the point you want to suspend - drill vertical hole through wood just a little wider than wire diameter. Take section of steel wire long enough to span the distance between suspension point and batten plus a few inches either side. Straighten it using electric drill and vice. Bend right angle at one end with few inches to spare, put it through suspension point then twist a few times round on itself. Other end goes through hole in batten. Pull wire through batten, take strain on suspension grid until get level you want. Then cut off an electrical terminal block piece (the one with two screws for connecting wires, decent size, eg 16A), put it over top end of wire and slide down to batten then tighten up to hold wire in place. Convoluted maybe but it does work and we've held up a few ceilings this way.

Click to expand...

thanks i may have to use that tip when i set out the main T's
my other question about fixing was the best way to fix the edge L trim without having to drill for rawplugs in the blockwork wall?
i would like to drill the edge L trim and then just fix it without drilling the blockwork...sort of self drilling masonry screw...and quite short..?? and at what centres...
since i may buy all the hardware myself and not use a all in kit purchase which comes with directions, i ask these questions in advance

i assume a 1200 cross T will support the edge of the 1200x600 tile

this will then mean i can cut down on material to fit...speed up the job...and perhaps the money side as well
i will only buy 4 main T's and fix them at mid span...ie 1400/1400...the garage width being 2800

cheers
geof

update
i am going to fit a shadow edge in timber 15X38 perhaps..and paint the downward edge matt black..
the screws should go into that direct from the edge angle via my driver...and the timber fixings wont have to be so many...
cheers
geof

Sorry - didn't have a watch on the thread. For the L trim round the edge, we screwed timber (not sure of size but probably about 75mm x 10mm) horizontally round the room then just screwed the L trim to that timber ensuring that the bottom of the L trim was more or less flush with the bottom edge of the wood - may be worth painting the wood first. That way the L trim doesn't get twisted out of shape. Rather old fashioned, we used a long clear plasric hose pipe filled with water to set level marks all round the room taking a datum form the first mark - just make sure you're pore or less level before taking thumb off the end to mark the next mark or the water meniscus will rise up over the top of the pipe.

coylumbridge said:

Sorry - didn't have a watch on the thread. For the L trim round the edge, we screwed timber (not sure of size but probably about 75mm x 10mm) horizontally round the room then just screwed the L trim to that timber ensuring that the bottom of the L trim was more or less flush with the bottom edge of the wood - may be worth painting the wood first. That way the L trim doesn't get twisted out of shape. Rather old fashioned, we used a long clear plasric hose pipe filled with water to set level marks all round the room taking a datum form the first mark - just make sure you're pore or less level before taking thumb off the end to mark the next mark or the water meniscus will rise up over the top of the pipe.

Click to expand...

fantastic man...the hosepipe thing...the only way barring a laser or dumpy to get levels longer than a spirit level
full marks for aptitude

like you i have ordered 25x38 timber to fix to the blockwork...i have done my line around with a 600 spirit level but have ordered a 1200 (i get it free as it costs the same as the timber delivery and my total bill as i needed other items, gets free delivery....thats with TRAVIS PERKINS)

will check that line with the new level...the old has been dropped a few times
regarding the edge timber...i will paint the underside matt black...shadow edge... and set the edge trim for the ceiling just below...about 6 mm
what did you use to fix the edge trim...i dont want to distort it with countersunk screws..
thanks for your timely input
cheers
geof

From memory, think we just predrilled holes in the L trim then used short selftapping round head screws. Usually enough space round the roof tiles anyway so that they don't get jammed against the screw heads.

coylumbridge said:

From memory, think we just predrilled holes in the L trim then used short selftapping round head screws. Usually enough space round the roof tiles anyway so that they don't get jammed against the screw heads.

Click to expand...

good!!
i thought round head...and self tappers will do as i have to fit a seal to the bottom of the garage door
cheers
geof...
work starts tomorrow..first fix is the timber surround...it has to miss some pipes and conduit....its my garage...also in one corner i have to leave off as there are 3 electrical fuse units there...
one for the ring main/lighting/garage power
one for the shower
one for the conservatory
so that corner will be the last bit to set up to support a notched tile
and a 440x120 pier midway down the outer wall
i have set out the grid so that certain tiles are placed below two access points into the garage truss loft boarding where i keep my tools and materials for diy...and some clobber as well
i am going to use the armstrong sytem and tiles as they have a good range of 1200x600 square edge
at this stage i have been also looking at slab insulation 1200x600 to insulate the garage ceiling...the garage is attached so one of the longer walls is double brick cavity.
it will develop i am sure to insulating the inner wall of the garage door as well

cheers
geof