Can you extend onto an already existing steel lintel? We have an external wall lintel which sits on a huge nib that sticks out into the kitchen. We would like to reduce the amount it sticks out into the room. Do we need to replace the existing Lintel with a longer length or is there a genius way of bolting on a smaller piece to span the gap? Hoping the answer is yes and that no one here is thinking I'm having a Jiraffe!!!!! Thanks
Extending a steel lintel???
- Thread starter LouT
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It is feasible using a couple of pieces of steel angle of suitable size/ length and some carefully positioned bolts.
But, depending on the span of your beam and the loading, you might need relatively large bolts (M20) and
it will be unlikely you will be able to drill that size with a DIY drill.
If the lintel is a light-guage lintel such as a Catnic, this method may not be feasible.
But, depending on the span of your beam and the loading, you might need relatively large bolts (M20) and
it will be unlikely you will be able to drill that size with a DIY drill.
If the lintel is a light-guage lintel such as a Catnic, this method may not be feasible.
The nib as you call it may have been left there to help stabilise the wall.
Not on a standard proprietary lintel it's not because they don't work like that.
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Thanks Cat. Yes it has but it is excessive and is like that presumably as it was cheaper and less work than using a full length lintel amd opening the room up to its maximum.
That's hilarious!!!!! Cheers Woody
Too often builders leave a nib at the outer wall bearing because 'everyone does it like that' or because the building inspector expects it; neither can usually say why it's necessary structurally.
In a kitchen particularly, the nib can be a nuisance as it interrupts the flow of the units.
As per Catlad, lateral stability of the house is crucial, but usually the nib adds little and the other walls in the house running acrossways can be shown quantitively to give adequate overall lateral stability.
(And as per Woody, extending a proprietory lintel with angle iron would not work - it's only feasible with conventional hot-rolled sections).
In a kitchen particularly, the nib can be a nuisance as it interrupts the flow of the units.
As per Catlad, lateral stability of the house is crucial, but usually the nib adds little and the other walls in the house running acrossways can be shown quantitively to give adequate overall lateral stability.
(And as per Woody, extending a proprietory lintel with angle iron would not work - it's only feasible with conventional hot-rolled sections).
Does the external wall have to be a 300mm cavity wall?
In theory can a steel rest on 100mm of a 230mm one brick wall when doing a kitchen diner knock through? I have always wondered how that would work with expansion of the steel plus the bond of the wall, if it is possible.
In theory can a steel rest on 100mm of a 230mm one brick wall when doing a kitchen diner knock through? I have always wondered how that would work with expansion of the steel plus the bond of the wall, if it is possible.
Yes, that is frequently done, though the SE has to allow for the eccentricity of the loading on the 230mm solid wall when doing the figures.
The expansion of the steel beam is not an issue - absolutely minimal.
They always seem to want padstones on nibs. Would you have to have one on the outer wall or is it down to the strength of the bricks? Like a frog down fletton might not be up to it but a semi engineer would???
If the SE confirms and can prove that no nib is necessary, then Building Control have to accept that.
The padstone need only be on the inner half of the wall. The length of the padstone depends on the load the beam is supporting, and the crushing strength of the brick or block forming the wall; figures for the crushing strength of various types of masonry and the required safety factors, are given in the standard books.
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On ours padstones were required on all existing walls with crumbly old bricks, but the new stuff was specced as celcon blocks with the end of the steel sitting straight on top inner leaf only holding the new upstairs wall. The builder used a column of concrete blocks and a padstone bridging the insulation for his own reasons, but ended up having to cut the padstone out and insulate.
The se had already proved that there was enough area and the weight above wouldn't damage the blocks
The se had already proved that there was enough area and the weight above wouldn't damage the blocks
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