Shower Area - Number of questions

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Hi Folks,

Got a couple of questions relating to a DIY Shower Room - I posted a couple of weeks back about the state of the plastered walls, these have now been dealt with and are now sound.

So I have a couple of questions, I am putting a 1200x800 shower base across the back wall and will be utilising the 3 walls of the room with a full 1200mm sliding door across the front. There will be a 100mm stud wall to the right to hide the pipework/valve etc.

So onto the questions:

1) Should I bother using a backing board on the 2 plastered walls (they are painted currently) or just apply tiles directly - 1 wall is an external if that makes a difference.

2) I have poured a self-levelling out for the floor as was quite uneven, do I need to put a backer down or can I tile straight onto this (do I need a different type of adhesive for floor tiles?)

3) So we need to fit a toilet basin too, do you lay the tiles first and fit the toilet on top of tiles or tile around the toilet? Same with vanity units/boxing in or floor level pipes etc?

4) So the shower door will fix into the stud wall, question is, do I tile the stud wall first and drill through the tiles to make the fixing or fix the door in place and tile up to the door?

Any help or assistance on the above would be greatly appreciated, I'm not going to lie, I'm a novice but I'm not afraid to give things a go but equally, I know when to get a trade in (usually around plumbing, I don't trust water!).

Thanks again folks!
 
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1 - There wasn't really any need to plaster the walls, and fixing tiles over paint is far from ideal. Cement backing boards are a far better solution, they will need to be fixed to the wall with screws.
2 - Cement based adhesive straight over it. Same cement adhesive for the walls. Cement adhesive meaning it's supplied as a powder in a bag, not a tub of slop.
3 - Tiles first, fixtures later. Unless you want to make a big pile of work for yourself in cutting tiles around curves.
4 - As 3. Tiles first, fixings later. If fixing into the stud, make sure the centre of the stud is located where the screws will go. Tiles are drilled on rotary setting only, do not use hammer action unless you want cracked and destroyed tiles.

5 which you did not ask - the shower tray goes in before the tiles. Fit and level the tray, seal the edges of the tray to the walls with silicone, then tile the walls.
 
Hi, on Point 1 it would be ok to scrape off any loose or flaking paint, give it a light rub down and then PVA the walls and it should then be good to tile directly onto them.
2) again you could PVA if you wish as it all helps it bond but you are able to tile straight onto the floor and get yourself a flexible floor adhesive.
3) it makes most sense to tile the whole area and then install the WC, basin pedestal etc as you can always change them in future without having to either find an exact match of the WC/pedestal footprint or have to retile.
4) again tiling the whole wall will futureproof it.
Hope this helps.
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for the responses @flameport unfortunately the walls were already plastered and painted before, I've removed a lot of the flakey paint.

Onto the comment regarding pva and feel free to correct me but upon reading several posts on this forum it advises against the use of PVA in wet areas as water breaks down the PVA?Should I use a more suitable primer such as something by Bal?

Thanks again for the help folks, really appreciate it
 
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The choice is yours but if done correctly the water and the surface you coated with PVA should never meet each other.
 
unfortunately the walls were already plastered and painted before, I've removed a lot of the flakey paint.
Backer boards over it is the only proper solution. Tiles over flaking paint will fail.

Primers can be used on certain types of background including plaster, however they are not required if using backer boards.
PVA has no purpose in any tiling application.
 

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