Why does the lamp have a coil?

I seem to remember an isolating transformer with short circuit proof winding should show this sign
ref-powerplug-composite.jpg

The little square on bottom shows short circuit proof. The shield means safety type. There are other variations, however looking at two USB adaptors on my desk, neither seems to show the safety markings, both show the Chinese Export (CE) sign.

With a grounded foil between the primary and secondary it is reasonably safe, or of course two bobbins on a grounded iron core, but that does increase losses, and the whole idea of 12 volt quartz lighting was increased lumen per watt. With LED today the capacitor is used to drop voltage and current which also can fail.

So in real terms lamps with exposed wires or rails need an isolated 12 volt supply, but unless exposed conductors are used why bother?

I read the heading and thought answer was to get enough length of tungsten, and actually it is a coiled coil. I never expected it to be about a transformer. As to isolation in the early days of computers the power supply would have a spare label which was to be placed on the computer case, to show anyone PAT testing that the power supply was an isolation type without the need to dismantle the computer. The power supplies often failed, and it was rare for anyone to attach the new label, I remember debating if we should accept the label on the outside or not? Don't think anyone worries today, but it was early days of PAT testing and although the computer may have been class I the items plugged into the computer were often not earthed and not Class II, so you could have metal connected to power supply vie one of the many plugs and sockets on the computer.
 
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Got around to getting the right bulb (mr16) for the lamp and it works.

Just a point! Surely good engineering to have the cable entry at the lamp's base rather than the top to impede water ingress?

 
I used to drill a drainhole in the rear near the bottom of lights like that, (carefull of hitting the coil though, best to take it out first) some say about capillary action sucking the water in, but i have not witnessed it and id rather water if it did get in drain out, rather than it fill up inside, the connections are high up and the coil relatively sealed and robust so unlikely for a little water to harm it anyway, and i recall the plastic bush has a rubber insert designed to seal onto the round input flex also.
 
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I used to drill a drainhole in the rear near the bottom of lights like that, (carefull of hitting the coil though, best to take it out first) some say about capillary action sucking the water in, but i have not witnessed it and id rather water if it did get in drain out, rather than it fill up inside ...
Water won't go in by capillary action unless the hole is very small. I suppose that if the air inside got very hot and then cooled down, the contraction of the air could theoretically 'suck' water in, but I don't think that's an issue. For either capillary action or that sort of 'suction' the whole thing would really need to be sitting in a pool of water for any significant amount to 'get in', and that's not going to be the case.

In other words, I'm also a fan of drain holes.

Kind Regards, John
 
I have to say I thinik drain holes are a very good idea. In my experience anything electrical outside, even supposedly sealed units, will always get water into them - so its much more preferable to provide a drain than let water accumulate (obviously excluding submereged items such as pond pumps :LOL:). Since adopting providing drain holes if one is not included I found lifespan of outdoor electrical items increased noticeably.

So yeah... drain holes... (y)
 
I have to say I thinik drain holes are a very good idea.
As I said, I am also a fan (and user) of drain holes, but there is one small downside ...

... creepy-crawlies (particularly spiders) can seemingly squeeze through very small holes, and it's not uncommon to find their remains in outdoor enclosures which have drain holes. If the price they pay is death by execution, then I'm not going to loose any sleep over that but, on at least one occasion (I think a couple), I have experienced RCD trips apparently due to this cause.

Kind Regards, John
 
Yes, I think a drain hole drilled into the base will be prudent.

A bit of silicone around the cable intake at the top to keep the water out as well.

Thanks All for posting comments by the way!
 
Got around to getting the right bulb (mr16) for the lamp and it works.

Just a point! Surely good engineering to have the cable entry at the lamp's base rather than the top to impede water ingress?

MR16 is the size of the reflector in eights of an inch and is nothing else to with the lamp type. MR16 lamps come in GU10, GU5.3, E14, or BC bases and 12, 24, 120, or 240V.
 
MR16 is the size of the reflector in eights of an inch and is nothing else to with the lamp type. MR16 lamps come in GU10, GU5.3, E14, or BC bases and 12, 24, 120, or 240V.

While that is strictly speaking true, most people of the general population would classify MR16 as ELV and GU10 as LV.
 
While that is strictly speaking true, most people of the general population would classify MR16 as ELV and GU10 as LV.
Well, since we are talking about "most people of the general population", I think the truth is that most of them would probably classify MR16 as "low voltage" and GU10 as "mains voltage" (and then, if they had any sense, keep well away from winston) :)

Kind Regards, John
 
While that is strictly speaking true, most people of the general population would classify MR16 as ELV and GU10 as LV.
Then they are strictly speaking wrong.

Because people say things doesn't make it true.




Also we have decided that ELV is (part of) LV.
 
Then they are strictly speaking wrong. Because people say things doesn't make it true.
Yep, that's all correct. However, everares was taking about what "most people of the general population" say, and I think he was probably wrong in what he suggested.
Also we have decided that ELV is (part of) LV.
Indeed, but that doesn't really help (other than to mean that they are actually 'strictly correct' when they refer to, say, 12V as LV) - but, despite what is strictly correct, very very few "people of the general population" would ever refer to ~230V as "Low Voltage".

You may recall that a long time back I canvassed some people about this issue and, again despite what is strictly true, found a nunber who said that it would be dangerous and/or 'irresponsible' to tell people (particularly within the earsight of youngsters) that mains electricity was 'low voltage'.

Kind Regards, John
 
Sticking my neck out here. I know the correct names for all the types of bulbs, er lamps. It's pretty obvious looking at the base (to me) if it's direct mains (230V) or if it's (extra) low voltage 12V. I must admit though, I once (in my youth) tried to rotate an MR16 12V out of its base, thinking it was a GU10. Had to replace the bulb holder, transformer and bulb with GU10. It honestly looked like a turn to the left would release it, but turned out I just needed to pull it.
And I knew the difference between a GU5.3 base and a GU10.
The general unwashed public might struggle, but no more than I did.
 

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