One gang socket with USB

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Why not hard wire the nest properly, back to it's own power supply that is built into the heatlink, as it was designed?
 
Why not hard wire the nest properly, back to it's own power supply that is built into the heatlink, as it was designed?
Can you enlarge on that, because that is what I would really like to do. This NEST thermostat has a USB cable plugged into the back of it, with a USB plug on the other end. At the moment my daughter has it sitting on the kitchen worktop, plugged into a USB socket. It is apparently meant to go on the living room wall (it has a mounting plinth) so the issue is how to plug it in. I am not sure what you mean about the power supply built in to the heat link?

I was going to ask if anyone knew of a 5v power supply and USB socket that I could put into a back box and cover the whole think with a blank plate.
 
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Did neither the thermostat nor the heatlink come with a wiring diagram?

I'm not sure what the heatlink is? The boiler was installed this year, the thermostat is simply a stand alone unit which is "wireless" except for the USB power/charging lead. It can be wall mounted on the plinth provided or simply left to sit on a shelf or worktop - my daughter wants it on the wall out of the way.
 
The heatlink (what the nest controller talks to) has 2 terminals T1 and T2, these connect to the 2 terminals on the wall mounting plate of the nest controller to provide power without the usb.
 
The heatlink (what the nest controller talks to) has 2 terminals T1 and T2, these connect to the 2 terminals on the wall mounting plate of the nest controller to provide power without the usb.

OK, thanks for that. However the boiler is in one corner of the kitchen. The thermostat needs to be over in the living area, maybe 20ft away. Hence it is wireless. All I am looking for is a neat way of plugging in the other end of the USB cable. If it is installed on the wall, the USB cable will go through the wall to a socket on the other side. But it will have to be led out of the wall to loop into the USB socket on the front plate which will work but is a bit untidy.
 
You say "Hence it is wireless" but the problem is it isn't - with regard to powering it.

Any thing is going to be untidy, isn't it? Even if you had a socket right next to where you want the thermostat.
 
A skilled electrician might be able to hide the cables, I assume you have a combi boiler and no hot water cylinder?
 
You say "Hence it is wireless" but the problem is it isn't - with regard to powering it.

Any thing is going to be untidy, isn't it? Even if you had a socket right next to where you want the thermostat.

Oh indeed. The problem is convincing my daughter of that fact. She wants concealed wiring.......
 
A skilled electrician might be able to hide the cables, I assume you have a combi boiler and no hot water cylinder?
Yes, it is a combi boiler, no hot water cylinder. It is the ground floor of a Victorian terrace, rewired with a new CU and combi boiler when the kitchen was installed earlier this year. I can hide the cable as far as possible. Ultimately though it has to emerge from the wall and get plugged into the front plate of the USB socket. As EFLImpudence has said above, it has to look untidy by definition. I need a 13A socket with a reversed USB socket accessed from the back........
 
You can use a grid system
ae235
a USB outlet a couple of blanks
94852_P
and a face plate
46537_P
and you can make a USB outlet to suit what you want, may be brushes
ae235
so with LAP grid system you need a double back box, other makes may have a single module for brushes and USB, I have used LAP from screwfix as easy to build what you want, it seems Legrand do a single modular unit but can't find it in UK pounds so not sure.

As to how much power is required it can be run off 2 AA cells I don't know?
 
You can use a grid system
ae235

That's a very good idea thank you. Shame though, like you I can find a single module brush outlet but only a double USB module so have a to be a double grid. Never mind I can probably sort something out. Many thanks.
 
Yes, it is a combi boiler, no hot water cylinder. It is the ground floor of a Victorian terrace, rewired with a new CU and combi boiler when the kitchen was installed earlier this year.
Oh FHS - why on earth was the issue of connecting a thermostat/programmer to that boiler not considered, and dealt with at the time?

Was there a boiler before? Was there a thermostat/programmer before? How were they connected?


I need a 13A socket with a reversed USB socket accessed from the back........
How would you get power to it?

How would you run a cable from the back of it to the Nest?
 

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