Intergas eco rf D plan help

What's going on with the cold and hot connections on the boiler?

If you're trying to do the D-Plan and us the boiler as a Combi, you'll have to get jiggy with additional relays.
 
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Thanks Dan for that. When he comes back next week we'll see about hard piping them then.

So forgive me buddy, let me run over something one more time......
The intergas cylinder sensor....https://theintergasshop.co.uk/inter...gas-hot-water-cylinder-sensor-12k-065117.html
Goes from the cylinder directly to the boiler?
Then the evohome hot water sensor goes in the same hole in as the intergas one and is wired to it's own box, which in turn is wired to where?
And the square cylinder stat that comes with the joule is used as well?

Sorry if this is all a bit basic like, i hadn't done any reading about this side as quite frankly the installer said he knew what he was doing. Really quite ****ed off if I'm honest.
 
What's going on with the cold and hot connections on the boiler?

If you're trying to do the D-Plan and us the boiler as a Combi, you'll have to get jiggy with additional relays.
What do ypu mean about the connections on the boiler buddy? The hot runs off the top of the tank up next to the boiler, the cold side runs from the PRV and up the right hand side of the boiler and off to the house. There is a couple of valves that can be shut and one opened which will allow the mains cold to bypass everything and just feed straight to the house.

Oh and there's a small bit of flexi off the hot on the bottom of the boiler that is just tucked up out the way. He was going to see if it would draw hot water off as a combi alongside the tank and CH. My understanding is that surely the boiler is set up as a combi or heat only, not able to do both, u less you can tell me otherwise.
 
It can be run as a combi and still run the cylinder but it is a different electrical setup and the combi side needs to feed a specific hot outlet that isn't connected to the cylinder.

I'm not sure why he's done the balanced draw and hot in 15mm. That, with the flexi's and Yorkshire fittings and it looks rather amateurish.
 
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Ah ok so it can be run as both, that could be useful.
Where can I find the wiring destructions for that setup then bud?
As I say, I specifically said when I was asking for installers I needed someone who was G3 certified and knew both intergas and evohome. But in all honesty, in a city down south that probably wouldn't have been any problem, up here it's been bloody hard work, and it's clearly scared a few "engineers" off.

Right now I've got no heating in the house and I'd bloody love to get it finished off so o can cross it off the list lol.
 
There isn't a wiring diagram for that setup. Although simple enough to do if you understand relays and zone valves. If you really wanted to, you could still have weather compensation or opentherm. However, in that configuration, you couldn't use the Intergas cylinder sensor.
 
Ah well, forget that idea, it's something to look into/research further down the line. Right now I'd just love to get the install working with the D plan and the evohome working together.

So Dan, how or where can I find the info for how the stats are wired in, and at that point is the evohome easy enough to get running or is there owt I need to watch out for?
The installer will have to come back to pull the 2 port valve out the system, so I'll have him hard pipe the EVs and hopefully we can work together to get the control sode working.
 
As I understand it you have the schematic that I drew up (the one titled "The D Plan on The Mighty Gash")? The only thing missing from that is the cylinders own thermostat being wired up in series with the 3-way valve.
 
I certainly do bud, which I passed on my sincere thanks for. :D
Right, so the original cylinder stat is still to be used and wired in series with the 3 port. Ok, think I follow that. (Full of cold and the poor brain cells just ain't firing on all cylinders at the minute like)
We're using a 4073 mid position valve which as I know from your schematic can be used in this set up, so the original stat will be brown for the permanent live, and the green/yellow will be the cpc, but the grey and the black will be connected to which wires of the 3 port valve? The orange is made safe, and the grey and white are joined together at/to pin 5, so my understanding is black would normally be 1. As the call wire and the grey is number 2. The satisfied wire, so do they get wired to the 3 way valve or am I missing something?!
I'm no plumber Dan as you can tell, but I seem to have to be doing the homework for the installer. :( if you can walk me through this I'll be indebted to you!
 

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