Replacing a filler loop, DIY job?

voyto · 1 Jan 2019

I have a constant drip from the little black tap on my filler loop. I've already tried nipping the valve screw a touch tighter which didn't change anything. A picture below to show you.

I fill that little bucket below about once a day.

I see you can just buy the whole filler loop assembly for a direct replacement, however, is this something I can just do myself or would a plumber be required? I wasn't sure if the whole system has to be drained or anything?

Thank you!

durhamplumber · 1 Jan 2019

Who the hell fitted that filter like that?

voyto · 1 Jan 2019

durhamplumber said:
Who the hell fitted that filter like that?

No idea, this was all done before we purchased the house. I assume it doesn't look very neat?

durhamplumber · 1 Jan 2019

It is not level in any plane.yes fill loop replacement is diy job if you turn stop tap off,drop pressure to zero and drain hot and cold taps,or via that drain off point,but they often stick

voyto · 1 Jan 2019

durhamplumber said:
It is not level in any plane.yes fill loop replacement is diy job if you turn stop tap off,drop pressure to zero and drain hot and cold taps,or via that drain off point,but they often stick

I have a cylinder in the airing cupboard, would the hot tap not drain that whole thing?
Switch off the main stop tap, leave taps open til they stop and I won't get a flood when removing those filler loop, from either end ?

Do I need the R24 loop from this link below?
https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=Filler+loop

Thank you for your help!

oldbutnotdead · 1 Jan 2019

That R24 loop will do the job. You could probably get away with a washing machine tap fitted instead of the black valve (looks as if the flexi is threaded onto the valve).

Can you tell EXACTLY where the water is coming from (the valve stem, the joint to the flexi, the joint to the copper pipe)? If its one of the pipe joints then a couple of spanners might solve the problem

voyto · 1 Jan 2019

oldbutnotdead said:
That R24 loop will do the job. You could probably get away with a washing machine tap fitted instead of the black valve (looks as if the flexi is threaded onto the valve).

Can you tell EXACTLY where the water is coming from (the valve stem, the joint to the flexi, the joint to the copper pipe)? If its one of the pipe joints then a couple of spanners might solve the problem

I'll double check in the morning, but I'm 99% sure it's from the little black tap itself. However, I do lose pressure from the boiler slowly, would that suggest the leak is on one of the joints? I'm not sure which side of the tap is the cold feed and which is the heating system.

oldbutnotdead · 1 Jan 2019

The heating system side is the pipe with the drain cock in it (so the lower of the 2 pipes). Somewhere on that filling loop there's probably an arrow (or 2) indicating direction of flow (which should be FROM cold water supply TO heating system

What I was asking was which bit of the black valve is the water leaking from (if you're doing a bucket a day it should be easy to spot). Get some kitchen towel or loo roll and dry the pipework/valve as completely as possible. Then look to see exactly where the water is coming from.

If you've got another set of pipe grips (like the one in the picture) or a set of mole grips then you can try tightening the pipe fittings (use 1 wrench/mole grips on the valve body to stop it spinning, use the other one to tighten the nuts at each end)

EDIT
Oops- though processes a bit sluggish still after New Year. If your heating system is gently and persistently losing pressure then the leak is almost certainly on the heating side of the loop (ie either the valve stem or the nut to the right of the valve in your pic). That volume of water per day is more than enough to cause pressure drop.

voyto · 2 Jan 2019

oldbutnotdead said:
The heating system side is the pipe with the drain cock in it (so the lower of the 2 pipes). Somewhere on that filling loop there's probably an arrow (or 2) indicating direction of flow (which should be FROM cold water supply TO heating system

What I was asking was which bit of the black valve is the water leaking from (if you're doing a bucket a day it should be easy to spot). Get some kitchen towel or loo roll and dry the pipework/valve as completely as possible. Then look to see exactly where the water is coming from.

If you've got another set of pipe grips (like the one in the picture) or a set of mole grips then you can try tightening the pipe fittings (use 1 wrench/mole grips on the valve body to stop it spinning, use the other one to tighten the nuts at each end)

EDIT
Oops- though processes a bit sluggish still after New Year. If your heating system is gently and persistently losing pressure then the leak is almost certainly on the heating side of the loop (ie either the valve stem or the nut to the right of the valve in your pic). That volume of water per day is more than enough to cause pressure drop.

So, it is definitely leaking from the black tap. I've attached another copy of the image with some labels on....

Am I correct in saying end 1 is the cold water feed. Turning that off at the mains and draining the taps in the house will remove the pressure on that, making it safe to remove? Just a little water left in the pipes will run out?

End 2 I assume is the heating side. Do I need to bring the pressure down before removing that nut? I keep reading about a "non return" somewhere on the system which will make this safe to remove? Or can i just put a bucket underneath and replace that end as fast as possible?

Sorry for so many questions - I'd rather understand it clearly before getting myself into trouble

oldbutnotdead · 2 Jan 2019

Yes End 1 is cold supply, end 2 is heating.
Non return valve is part of the filling loop, if you replace the whole thing you'll need to drain the heating system as well as the cold supply.

gasmanstu72 · 2 Jan 2019

mate, do this:
turn off the water and open your cold tap & leave it open.
unscrew the hose from the heating side and then turn on the filling loop and drain the excess water into that bowel you got there.
put a hose on that drain point under the filling loop and open it up, let it run until you think the water flow is manageable.
whilst thats draining, change the cold main side of the filling loop (pay attention to the arrow on the valve). you can use the same nut and olive.
remove the heating side valve and quickly fit the new one in its place using the same nut and olive.
turn on water main and re-pressurize, bleed rads if they need it.

go out your feet up and have a cuppa

gasmanstu72 · 2 Jan 2019

oldbutnotdead said:
That R24 loop will do the job. You could probably get away with a washing machine tap fitted instead of the black valve (looks as if the flexi is threaded onto the valve).

Can you tell EXACTLY where the water is coming from (the valve stem, the joint to the flexi, the joint to the copper pipe)? If its one of the pipe joints then a couple of spanners might solve the problem

Op, dont get a washing machine tap it's a different thread and won't work here

John D v2.0 · 2 Jan 2019

there's no need to drain down the heating system as then you'll have to faff around bleeding and adding inhibitor again, just replace the black tap valve section. That only needs draining down the mains water side of the system by turning off the stopcock and turning the taps on before you remove it.
As long as your new valve fits the existing filling loop you'll be fine. The double non return valve is in the part (end 2) that you're not replacing. Ours had the exact same leak when we bought the house and I did exactly that as a stopgap (although admittedly I did replace the other side the next time I drained the CH side, and secondly I'm not a professional plumber)

voyto · 3 Jan 2019

John D v2.0 said:
there's no need to drain down the heating system as then you'll have to faff around bleeding and adding inhibitor again, just replace the black tap valve section. That only needs draining down the mains water side of the system by turning off the stopcock and turning the taps on before you remove it.
As long as your new valve fits the existing filling loop you'll be fine. The double non return valve is in the part (end 2) that you're not replacing. Ours had the exact same leak when we bought the house and I did exactly that as a stopgap (although admittedly I did replace the other side the next time I drained the CH side, and secondly I'm not a professional plumber)

So if I leave the circled part attached (see new photo) and just remove at the arrow, the NRV will hold the water in the system?

I have the full loop purchased from screwfix above

ianmcd · 3 Jan 2019

just undo the hose and leave the NRV where it is there is nothing wrong with it, a very easy 5 minute job to do

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Replacing a filler loop, DIY job?

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