Gap between supporting beam and block wall

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I've moved into a mobile home which has a side extension, timber framed. The supporting beam below the wall sits on a block wall but the wall doesn't seem plumb and there is some gaps between the wall and wood. Can I fill this with something to secure the weight distribution?
 
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I've moved into a mobile home which has a side extension, timber framed. The supporting beam below the wall sits on a block wall but the wall doesn't seem plumb and there is some gaps between the wall and wood. Can I fill this with something to secure the weight distribution?
What are the sizes/ shape of gaps?
 
No bigger than 1cm high, as deep as a block, so about 10cm. I've filled with plastic packers at the moment, between 1mm and 7mm (adding a 6mm and 1mm). Here is a picture, hope it's clear.

 
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For that resin, does it use a standard gun like you use with silicone? I probably won't be able to remove some of the packers I've placed in, but I can fill in-between, would that be ok? Thanks for your help.
 
Requires a special gun though there are some smaller tubes which can be used from standard frame gun .
 
Can you feel bounce or hear creaking when walking over it? if not then i wouldnt worry. but if you can, plactic packing isnt a bad choice. like window fitters use. but is subject to move/loosen over time due to traffic and weather (expanding and contracting in hot /wet conditions) if not secured.

As mentioned above, slate and cement is quite a common practice and once set shouldn't move.

Not had any experience in the epoxy
 
No I can't hear any cracking or feel any movement when walking over. Mostly worried about excess pressure on localised points of the block wall really.

So with the dry mix sand/cement, is that a ratio of 3:1 like usual? Is it dry mix because wet would rot the wood, if I'm remembering correctly? But this still sets hard?

Thanks for the advice.
 
Leave it. No point if you haven’t got movement.

The minimal pressure produced is negligible. Dwarf walls under old house floors have single points of pressure along them holding an entire floor on it.

But if you want to go ahead, dry mix doesn’t slump out. The moisture in the air cures it over a few days. Nothing to do with rot but if you was bothered about moisture you could slip in some dpc strip and pack the cement under it.
 

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