What paint to use,??

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Hello,,,ive just sanded down my stairwell which was a bit of a chew on,,,it had been painted with some kind of latex paint i think straight onto the plaster,,,anyway as you can see on the picture some of it on the plasterboard wall have flaked off when ive sanded,,,so i was wondering what is the best for a first coat back over it,,,???,,,should i give it a coat of matt emulsion,,,???,,,or should i mist a bit water onto the bare plaster patches and go over it all with a latex paint,,,???,,,or some other way,,,???,,,any advice from you lads who know what youre talking about please...
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Some watered down latex-free emulsion isn't going to hurt but I think you may find that you'll always be able to see the edge of the patches regardless of how many coats you apply. I'd grab a tub of contract matt (armstead etc), do a mist coat then roller on a proper coat and see what it looks like - if you're still seeing the patches I might be inclined to hang some decorating paper or get it skimmed. If it looks good then you can overpaint with whatever you want but I'd stick to a matt paint.
 
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Give it a couple of coats of watered down emulsion, then a coat of oil based undercoat to hide all the marks that bleed through. Then a couple of coats of emulsion, it will then look like new.

Andy
 
should i give it a coat of matt emulsion,,,???,,,or should i mist a bit water onto the bare plaster patches and go over it all with a latex paint,,,???,,

With regards to emulsion, the terms latex and acrylic are pretty much
interchangeable. A true latex paint would break down when washed with water. Emulsion paints therefore use varying quantities of both acrylic and latex resins.

As per the post above. I would simply waterdown bog stand matt emulsion. I wouldn't however use oil based undercoat- you don't seem to have any water stains, and thus I don't see the point (unless the new watered down matt causes the old paint to lift at the edges).

However, it is very likely that you will see the edges of the old paint. You can either use a thick lining paper or buy a tub of Toupret Redlite filler for a tenner. Fill the previously bare areas and lightly sand by hand using 150-180 grit paper. Unlike the powder based fillers, any dust will sit on surfaces rather than clinging to them.
 
the two coats of vinyl paint on the original plaster are very thin and the patches or edges wouldn't be noticed after a couple of coats in my opinion,,,the problem is going to be edges lifting and bubbles coming up from the original paint once it gets moist from the new paint,,,all this ofcourse is because the original plaster didn't get a mist coat,,,just vinyl paint straight onto it...
 
If you are worried about the edges lifting, you could use oil based under coat (as suggested by Andy), alternatively. if you don't want to wait until the next day before being able to overcoat, consider using a shellac base coat, eg Blockade (from a British company), Zinsser BIN is equally good though

https://www.frenchpolishes.com/products/blockade.htm

If you use a shellac paint as a primer you can overcoat with ****erbased emulsion in about 30 minutes. If you use oil based undercoat you are looking at the next day, however oil based undercoat is wayyyyy cheaper.

Before going down that route, I would apply a mist coat and see if the edges do in fact lift.
 
ended up getting a tin of Zinsser cover stain and it worked fine once I got the hang of rolling with an oil based paint,,,first time ive used an oil based paint for walls and must say im in love with it,,,i can finally paint without leaving shadows,,,im thinking oil based paint is the way to go every time I paint my walls now so could anybody recommend some decent reasonably priced oil based interior none shiny wall paint please,,,???,,,the Zinsser primer is great stuff but expensive at nearly £50 for 5 litres,,,cheers...
 
Oil based matt finish doesn't exist well not in my 33 years of painting and decorating
 
Oil based matt finish doesn't exist well not in my 33 years of painting and decorating

Have you never used oil based dead flat paint? It would fit Sonofrob's requirements. The main caveats are cost, smell, longer drying time and the fact that it yellows in dark rooms.
 

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