External waste runs to hopper

Joined
7 Nov 2018
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi,
I could do with some help planning the waste runs into a hopper, see pic. I removed some rotten decking last year to find the bathroom waste is run directly into a outside drain (no external trap), which I obviously need to fix.

In the pic there are 2 wastes from an upstairs bathroom (inaccessible from inside), which join and runs across the ground and into a drain (out of pic), a waste from the kitchen sink (under window) running into a clay(?) hopper in good condition, an outside tap (inaccessible from inside), boiler vent (black), and boiler condensate (I need to replace with 32mm to mitigate freezing pipe). All pipes are 40mm except the condensate.

I guess the easiest solution is to run from below where the bathroom wastes join into the kitchen waste before entering the hopper, is this ok? The neatest solution would be to run the lower of the two bathroom wastes into the other bathroom waste just above the boiler vent and then run that waste into the kitchen waste just below the outside tap. I've no idea on issues joining multiple wastes before entering a hopper?

There's no way I can get to the bathroom wastes inside to, for example, run them into the stack. I also can't get to the kitchen tap inside without ripping out the kitchen.

One last complication, a lintel needs fitting above the window because of sagging brickwork.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 
Sponsored Links
Oh dear, that's got to be the most convoluted setup I've seen recently.

Yup, I'd use the drain the kitchen waste is going into for it all. Run a vertical 50mm pipe into that. Larger pipe needed to handle more than one waste draining at one time.

Bring the kitchen waste into the top of the 50mm pipe with a reducing tee and put an access in the top leg.

The left hand waste coming down from the bathroom, Tee or Y piece into the right and bring it down, then elbow left and reducer tee into the 50mm pipe a little further down from the kitchen waste to avoid crossflow.

Oh and that condensate should really be at least 32mm coming through the wall into the waste
 
Oh dear, that's got to be the most convoluted setup I've seen recently.

Yup, I'd use the drain the kitchen waste is going into for it all. Run a vertical 50mm pipe into that. Larger pipe needed to handle more than one waste draining at one time.

Bring the kitchen waste into the top of the 50mm pipe with a reducing tee and put an access in the top leg.

The left hand waste coming down from the bathroom, Tee or Y piece into the right and bring it down, then elbow left and reducer tee into the 50mm pipe a little further down from the kitchen waste to avoid crossflow.

Oh and that condensate should really be at least 32mm coming through the wall into the waste
Many thanks for the detail Rob.

I'll do as you suggest and run 50mm up from the drain and tee off, once for the bathroom and then for the kitchen.

I might leave the two vertical pipes from the bathroom because I'm concerned about disrupting the internal joints which are hidden behind a tiled bath panel. I'll angle from the right, then tee from the right and run into the tee on the 50mm pipe.

I'll fix the condensate first and see how I get on with loosening the solvent weld joints with a heat gun - it might give me the confidence to do the bathroom pipes properly!
 
Sponsored Links
Don't worry about heating the couplings, buy some extra pipe and straight connectors, cut back and glue in new sections. Buy a set of ratchet pipe shears.

How far away is the drain, the one not in the pic.
 
Don't worry about heating the couplings, buy some extra pipe and straight connectors, cut back and glue in new sections. Buy a set of ratchet pipe shears.

How far away is the drain, the one not in the pic.
Drain is about 1m from the hopper, I'll post a pic tomorrow.

The bathroom pipe runs about 1m away from the wall into an angle then runs about 2m directly into the drain and isn't properly sealed (risk of rats). That pipe could freeze causing water to back up which would then block the condensate drain and the boiler would turn itself off (I hope).
 
Dig up the concrete and connect a new back inlet gulley then run a rainwater pipe with hopper down to it for upstairs. Then downstairs pipes through the grid.
 
Even more so after the last pic !!

Lol you're not kidding.

After seeing that then I have to agree with the guys, time to rejig the whole thing. New back inlet gully or P trap and hopper with a side inlet closer to the wall with 68mm downpipe into it, run it down where the current right hand waste and tie the left hand waste into it. Then left along to where the new gully/hopper will be . No reason you couldn't tie all the waste into the black 68mm to tidy it all up, paint any white bits and connect into the gulley below ground.
 
Not often I disagree with some of the Good Guy's on here, but I would be concerned about using a hopper for wastes. Hoppers were banned for that purpose many years ago, (unless as a direct replacement for an existing setup.) I'd say you'd be better to either run in in 50mm, or put a stack up to take the wastes if nothing else. (Assume WC goes into existing internal stack.)


Whoever fitted that current abortion needs shooting.
 
Not sure what type of hopper you were meaning @Hugh Jaleak?

Just to keep my comments clear, I was talking about a back inlet P trap or gulley with a covered hopper on top in the ground with the 68mm pipe fitted below ground into the back inlet and all the waste pipe's fed into the 68mm pipe, none of the wastes fed into an open top anywhere & definitely not a hopper on top of a 68mm pipe half way up the wall where the 2 open ends of the upstairs waste would drain into.
 
There must have been some reason why they did it like that, rather than connecting into the kitchen pipe.

You don’t want to re-jig it all and then re-discover why. For example, maybe there is a partial blockage that they were bypassing?

Proceed with caution!
 
yes - test the drain the sink waste goes into first.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top