Replacing an isolation valve complications

Itspeter · 25 May 2019

Hi guys,

I've got a leaky isolation valve. If you look at the picture, when the isolation valve is open water is leaking from where indicated. I've purchased a couple of replacement isolation valves but they are smaller, so I can't neatly join the pipe with the toilet. What is the easiest way I can fix this?

oldbutnotdead · 25 May 2019

Measure your existing isolator, go for a trot round the shops til you find one the same size.

Or try tightening the top nut on that one a bit, or take it off, clean it up & refit with some boss white and/or ptfe

oldbuffer · 25 May 2019

Have a look at Screwfix 58008 https://www.screwfix.com/p/straight...VB893Ch1k5wPXEAQYASABEgLJDvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

blup · 25 May 2019

Sometimes they leak when overtightened.

A good plumbers merchants should be able to supply a matching size.

Blup

Madrab · 25 May 2019

As @oldbuffer linked to, you don't have a isolation valve, you have a service valve. It has a longer 1/2"bsp tail on it that will match you current one.

It probably isn't leaking from the bottom part of the tail though if that PTFE tape is anything to go by, I'd try a new 1/2" fibre or rubber washer in the nut first.

Just make sure the fibre/rubber washer is in place and hand tighten and then nip up in 1/4 turn stages with an adjustable.

bazdaman · 25 May 2019

The service valve unscrew itself from where you have the arrow when you overtighten the connection to fill valve,

Madrab · 25 May 2019

bazdaman said:
the service valve unscrew itself from where you have the arrow when you overtighten the connection to fill valve,

Can't say I've ever seen that in all the years I've worked with them. Only ever seen that once on a full flow ball valve where the valve itself split at the valve body where the ball is inserted and that was because a pair of vice grips were used to grip that part when loosening. I would expect the fill valve's shank to go before that would loosen, unless it's been well attacked but hey never say never.

Nige F · 26 May 2019

I would change the fill valve for one with a brass tail - then you'll get a good connection. I personally have no faith in plastic threads.

jeff the gasman · 26 May 2019

Madrab said:
Can't say I've ever seen that in all the years I've worked with them. Only ever seen that once on a full flow ball valve where the valve itself split at the valve body where the ball is inserted and that was because a pair of vice grips were used to grip that part when loosening. I would expect the fill valve's shank to go before that would loosen, unless it's been well attacked but hey never say never.

I have!

diynot

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

Replacing an isolation valve complications

Itspeter

Attachments

oldbutnotdead

oldbuffer

blup

Madrab

bazdaman

Madrab

Nige F

jeff the gasman

DIYnot Local

Similar threads