Alarm went off middle of night scatronic 9651/9930

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Tyne and Wear
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Hi

We did not set alarm when went to sleep but in the early hours the alarm went off???
We reset it using the user code but it kept coming up Global tamper, Front door, Active

We have the alert light on and the front door is still active?
how do I get the front door to inactive so alarm is in normal condition for use.

At present if I open the front door the alarm goes off again.

Any advice would be appreciated

Thank you
 
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Either the conttact has failed or you have a cable ussue.
Remove the contact and tie down the circuit.
That willprove the wiring.
If solid on Ohms its the contact.
 
questions, questions

how long has the system been installed?
how is it wired?
have you done anything with the system prior to the system activating?
IE carpet moves, etc.

it could be a failed contact, especially as the system goes into tamper when the door is opened

do you have the engineer code?

if you have,
check the wiring from the TAMPER connections on the door contact (i hope you have a door contact on the front door)
check the the ZONE wiring from the panel to the door contact

if you have a meter, put it on the lowest OHM range and check the cable connections from the panel to the door contact.

any futher info, just post it here and we will try to fix it for you!!!
 
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Could also be corroded joints at a concealed not surface contact at the (FRONT) door
 
Bet it's a flippin' cable spiked over a gripper rod. ;)
 
Hi All

Thanks for your replies so quickley.

The system has been in for about 4 years, we only moved in about 6 months ago and was only given the user code.

It has been working fine to exit and enter.

We have not touched any carpets at all and nothing done recently that would effect the working of the alarm.

We donot have an engineers code, as was thinking if had could open the control panel to check wiring??. Now I guess if I do open it the tamper alarm will go off for this.

At present the alarm is off with the alert light still lit, If I open the front door the alarm goes off as the global tamper alarm front door status is still active.

I do have door contacts which are flush mounted into the door frame.

I have got a copy of the instruction now but it does not tell me how to change status of Front door.

I do not have any other lights on the panel at present.

Thanks to all your replies, I am not very good electrically but will have a go at anything
 
well you are lucky in the fact that the installer did not put the tamper alert on engineer only reset, you can open the end station and check wiring as described above

BUT
DISCONNECT THE MAINS FROM THE PANEL BEFORE OPENING IT

while you are there, change the battery, fit a 7 amp hour 12volt battery,

disconnect cabling from the suspect door contact
check continuity back to the panel on ALL cores
if this is ok
change the contact in the door
use 2 cores for the contact (silver terminals)
use 2 core for the tamper loop (twist together and put under a brass terminal)
recconnect and test

if any further problems, just post here and we will try to sort it out for you

Oasis
 
Thanks oasistechnical

before I attempt the repair I best say that the global tamper front door is active and when I open the door the alarm does not go off but does when I close it again.

However if I open door and view alerts the system comes up as ok and all the lights go out as if the alarm is fully reset. but soon as shut door the alarm sounds again.

Does this change anything you have suggested.

Thanks
 
you have a cable fault by the sound of it,

follow what i have posted, and that will work.

if you find you do not have continuity between a pair of cores, and you only have continuity on one pair, loop out the tamper on the pair that fails,

use the good pair on the contact (silver connections) this will get the system working but will render the system down a grade to grade 1 (but unless your insurance company knows you have a system that will really not matter, i just have to tell you this as a professional alarm installation engineer!)

give it a go and come back to us.

Oasis
 
Take the contact out of the door frame, if it's damp it'll be corroded & very noticeable, then replace it, do the easy bit first.
 
Hi, apologies for reviving an almost 10 year old thread but i was wondering what the solution to this problem was. Dodgy contact or dogy wiring?

I have the same issue...moved into new property 3 months ago and all of a sudden (in the middle of the night!) the 9651 internal sounder went off with 'front door tamper' error message on keypad (i haven't recently done anything in terms of moving carpets ets). I disabled the sounder with the user code but the error light stayed on and the sounder keeps randomly going off when it wants (after 30 seconds, 2 mins, 5 mins etc) or when i open the front door.

Whoever installed the system did a good job in hiding all the cables (both inside and out) so i'm thinking of just linking out the tamper connections at the control panel as i don't think i really need them - do people agree?

Found some paperwork that goes with the system and it says 'door contact replaced' due to tamper error in 2018' (doesn't say who replaced it). Might be that the door contact has failed again - but if i just link out the tamper at the control panel should this sort the problem?

There are only two core wires going into the two silver screws on the flush door contact (which have capacitors bridging them?) and another two cores are twisted together and pushed behind the contact but not physically screwed into it (i assume these are for the tamper loop?). I haven't checked continuity for anything yet. (What i think is confusing me is, even if the door contact has failed (again after a year?) can this be what's causing the problem even though the tamper wires aren't connected to it? I wouldn't have thought so but happy to hear thoughts.

Could it be an old internal battery or would this have nothing to do with the 'tamper' error message?

Yet again, apologies for dragging up this old post and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Check the connections on the contact are secure.
Possible problem are poor connection, damaged cable ,faulty resistors, faulty contact.
Cheapest solution is to change door contact and resistors.
Fault battery would report battery fault on display.
 
Hi Handymanjo,

Many thanks for taking the time to reply...think you were right!

Update: checked the internal battery (a good while after I'd disconnected the mains) and it read 13v. I linked out the tamper at the PCB and put everything back together- but no luck, I was still getting a 'door tamper fault' and it was triggering the internal alarm randomly or when I was opening the front door.

Was thinking it may have the bell box battery. Went up the ladder opened up the box but couldn't figure out how to remove the battery - which I think I can just about see behind a perspex inner covering - which I couldn't unclip. Linked out the bell box tamper and 0v at the PCB. Put it all back together but still no luck and still had the 'door tamper error'.

Finally went to get a new door contact and swapped the old with the new using the old resistors. Put everything back together and no 'door tamper fault' as yet (admittedly only 30 mins so far). Looks like this may well have been the problem - but I'll report back in a day or two in case it ever helps anybody else.

Admittedly, I know nothing about electronics (I just have basic DIY skills) but could somebody please explain why separate resistors are needed for the door contact (as per my picture)? Why can't it just be used out of the packet by screwing directly into 2 of the terminals? (As you'll see, no tamper wires are screwed into the door contact, they were just twisted together and stuffed behind the old contact- which is what I've done. I may eventually change this and remove the various links at the Pcb) but for now, I just want to make sure there's no further errors.

Thanks again, handymanjo.
 

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B**locks.

Internal sounder just triggered with same 'tamper front door zone 1' error. Arrrragh.

Could it just be a knackered PCB?
 

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