Tiling in this wall!!

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Hi, I'm in need of some advice please on what work would need doing to get the wall in the following pictures ready for tiling?
I'm having a kitchen fitted it's all going wrong and been done back to front, worktops fitted, but fitted badly ,so probably coming off anyway.

Is it a big job to repair this? Will the whole wall need doing or can it be patched up?

Many thanks in advance for any help!
 

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Tends to happen when tiles are removed from a dry lined wall. It's normal, should easily be repaired by a skilled plasterer.
 
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Thank you, that's reasauring, just not sure if worktops will be replaced or not. I was wondering if a total novice could do it with a bit of research and effort? I'm a bit reluctant to get anybody in with the way things have gone so far.
 
Just speaking as the world's worst plasterer Mary, I reckon you could make a reasonable job using ready mixed plaster from Wickes or whatever plus a proper plasterers trowel......certainly good enough to tile on top of, anyway.
You've nothing to lose by giving it a go, but protect those tops with thick masking tape and a good layer of heavy paper.
John :)
Ps is that Wedgwood Blue Pacific I spy?
J.
 
Just speaking as the world's worst plasterer Mary, I reckon you could make a reasonable job using ready mixed plaster from Wickes or whatever plus a proper plasterers trowel......certainly good enough to tile on top of, anyway.
You've nothing to lose by giving it a go, but protect those tops with thick masking tape and a good layer of heavy paper.
John :)
Ps is that Wedgwood Blue Pacific I spy?
J.
Ooh that's good news, I'm definitely willing to try. I've watched some videos!! What I'm most concerned about is how much of what is already there do I need to remove?
 
Just speaking as the world's worst plasterer Mary, I reckon you could make a reasonable job using ready mixed plaster from Wickes or whatever plus a proper plasterers trowel......certainly good enough to tile on top of, anyway.
You've nothing to lose by giving it a go, but protect those tops with thick masking tape and a good layer of heavy paper.
John :)
Ps is that Wedgwood Blue Pacific I spy?
J.
Very similar but no bot wedgwood
 
Ooh that's good news, I'm definitely willing to try. I've watched some videos!! What I'm most concerned about is how much of what is already there do I need to remove?
The skim coat that can be picked off with a finger nail has to go but don't overdo it.....the wall can be sealed with a PVA solution which will help to stabilise things. You need to get your plaster coat pretty flat but you can add more plaster if needed. A genuine plasterer could do it in a flash (if you can find one)!
John :)
 
The skim coat that can be picked off with a finger nail has to go but don't overdo it.....the wall can be sealed with a PVA solution which will help to stabilise things. You need to get your plaster coat pretty flat but you can add more plaster if needed. A genuine plasterer could do it in a flash (if you can find one)!
John :)
Thanks it's very dusty so do I need to get rid of all the dust with a brush by scrubbing it?
 
You'll be brushing for the rest of your life, Mary :eek: get rid of the loose stuff and give it a coat of the PVA solution.
John :)
 
You'll be brushing for the rest of your life, Mary :eek: get rid of the loose stuff and give it a coat of the PVA solution.
John :)
Ah ok lol obviously I don't have clue but i saw a video where they really scrubbed at it, glad I dont have to be thay thorough!
 
You may like to consider a timber window cill, of course - timber yards do set lengths and widths with a bull nose edge. Leaving an inch or so projection can cover a multitude of tiling sins :mrgreen:
John :)
 
You may like to consider a timber window cill, of course - timber yards do set lengths and widths with a bull nose edge. Leaving an inch or so projection can cover a multitude of tiling sins :mrgreen:
John :)
Ah yes, thank you, was wondering about what to do with the window sill. I asked the kitchen fitter if I could buy a wooden windowsill but he didn't know.
 
Sure you can - as the widths are usually more than the average plank of timber, MDF is an option and its fine so long as it is painted / protected or whatever.
25mm (1") is a typical thickness and its dead flat. Fixing with No Nails or similar adhesive is fine so long as the timber has plenty of contact to the adhesive.
John :)
 

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