Mazda Eunos front springs/shock absorbers, rubber perished

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Hi,
Will a car fail the MOT, if the Spring/shock absorber rubber boots have perished, otherwise they look ok. I suppose the rain will soon ruin them.

1/ Can the rubber boots be changed, or is it simply change the whole thing?

2/ Is it a difficult job? I presume a spring compressor is needed.
Cheers, Camerart.
 
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It’s not a fail.

I assume you are talking about the strut rubber boot protector fitted inside the spring? Yes, they can be changed and yes, you will need a spring compressor.
 
I guessed Camera was talking about the mounting rubber bushes? If so, I'd change the shock as they will be some age by now.
Spring compressors are needed but unfortunately 'standard' compressors wont go over the coil spring......they are very close to the shock and the gap between the coils is narrow, if memory serves. I used some modified motorbike compressors on the J reg car I worked on.
John :)
 
Hi M and J,
I am talking about the Strut rubber boot protector.

If we assume that it passes the MOT. I can see other perished rubber around. Do you think it would help to buy some boots, and cut them down the length of one side, feed them through the coil, tie wrap them, so the slit is at the back, to keep the worst off. Then when they fail replace the whole thing?
C
 
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Personally I don't think I'd bother.....it won't fail the MOT and won't make any difference really. If the shocks aren't leaking they should be fine too.
I've only worked on two MX5s, and every spring was broken, much to my surprise.
John :)
 
Personally I don't think I'd bother.....it won't fail the MOT and won't make any difference really. If the shocks aren't leaking they should be fine too.
I've only worked on two MX5s, and every spring was broken, much to my surprise.
John :)
Hi J,
Ok, it looks like it's ready for a test then!
I didn't change the calipers, because the old ones look of and the pads look almost new, also I will change the flexible pipes at the same time.

I'm going to call it a Eunos from now on, not an MX5, in case any other parts are different.
Thanks C
 
Good luck with the test - the only marginal item I came across was the handbrake mechanism which needs to be in perfect order and adjustment.
Interested to hear how it goes!
John :)
 
Good luck with the test - the only marginal item I came across was the handbrake mechanism which needs to be in perfect order and adjustment.
Interested to hear how it goes!
John :)
Hi J,
Interested.
C
 
Just scratching the memory cell.....I'm talking about H and J registered cars, neither of which was a Eunos (I think!)
Anyway, the handbrake was only just good enough for the MOT - its best if the discs and pads are recent but 'bedded in'.
The operating arms where the cable connects to need to be right back on their stops.
The 14mm plug on the back of the caliper is unscrewed (nothing escapes) and in the hole is a 5mm allen screw. Turning the screw in clockwise moves the pads in close contact with the disc....I had to have the pads just scraping the disc to be effective.
Then its back in with the 14mm plug and away for testing. Its only now that the handbrake cable should be adjusted if necessary.
It's the only manually adjusted disc system I've come across, I had no manual but sort of worked it out for myself.
If your system is the same then this may help at some time - if it isn't then please disregard!
John :)
 
Just scratching the memory cell.....I'm talking about H and J registered cars, neither of which was a Eunos (I think!)
Anyway, the handbrake was only just good enough for the MOT - its best if the discs and pads are recent but 'bedded in'.
The operating arms where the cable connects to need to be right back on their stops.
The 14mm plug on the back of the caliper is unscrewed (nothing escapes) and in the hole is a 5mm allen screw. Turning the screw in clockwise moves the pads in close contact with the disc....I had to have the pads just scraping the disc to be effective.
Then its back in with the 14mm plug and away for testing. Its only now that the handbrake cable should be adjusted if necessary.
It's the only manually adjusted disc system I've come across, I had no manual but sort of worked it out for myself.
If your system is the same then this may help at some time - if it isn't then please disregard!
John :)
Hi B,
Complety forgot this post!
I didn't change the calipers, so didn't need to adjust the handbrake.
The car passed the MOT, :)
I put it in the garage to have the Cambebelt and water pump changed. So far I haven't used it apart from garage visits.
Cheers, C
 
Good news about the MOT!
Timing belts are easy on these but the radiator has to come out and the crank centre nut undone, but all that’s needed is a belt and tensioner spring.....I cant remember if Ive done a water pump or not.
They do suffer from rocker gasket failure though, and the plug wells fill up with oil so its worth checking that.
John :)
 
Good news about the MOT!
Timing belts are easy on these but the radiator has to come out and the crank centre nut undone, but all that’s needed is a belt and tensioner spring.....I cant remember if Ive done a water pump or not.
They do suffer from rocker gasket failure though, and the plug wells fill up with oil so its worth checking that.
John :)
Hi J,
I watched videos, then thought I'd treat myself to someone else doing it.
I bought Mazda pump and rocker gasket, which lessen the odds of leakage, than after market stuff. Also Top/bottom hoses, and spring, and pulleys.
I also noticed that I would need a torque wrench.
No guarantee, as I supplied the parts. Lesson learnt!
C.
 
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