Sealing air leaks around sockets/switches

Is the area behind your light switches/sockets open to the elements? In most houses there is brickwork/blockwork in that area, at least for outside walls. Where is the air going to/coming from?
 
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I don't remember there being a significant wind when removing switches or sockets in people's houses.

Anyway, silicon is not the right material to use.
 
John, can I ask do you know what your talking about or is it just guess work? Why do you think they seal up all air gaps in air tight houses. All sockets, light fittings, joints in floors ceilings etc.. are taped up with air tight tape. It's to stop heat escaping through drafhts.
My comments are based on common sense coupled with an understanding of the physics etc. involved.

For a start, as has been mentioned by others, where do you believe that the air leaks around sockets/switched are leaking to? Even in the case of outside walls (where only a relatively small proportion of switches/sockets are usually located), there should not be any significant 'air route' to the outside world. This is totally different from leaks around outside doors and windows etc.

More generally, unless one has an efficient heat-recovery system, it would seem that the advantages of making a house 'air tight' are nearly always going to be largely negated by the need for ventilation. Do I take it that your ventilation does, or will, incorporate a heat recovery system?
I have a potential 100 air leaks through my sockets, light fittings, switch's in my home. Alot of air leaks. When the house is getting fully heated on a windy cold night, if one puts their hand over these, you can feel an air draft.
If that's true, it sounds as if there is something wrong with the construction of your home and/or the installation of your electrical accessories. As above, with the possible exception of light fittings on top floor ceilings, there really should not be a route to the outside world (hence 'wind' etc.) from the position of a switch or socket.

Kind Regards, John
 
John, can I ask do you know what your talking about or is it just guess work? Why do you think they seal up all air gaps in air tight houses. All sockets, light fittings, joints in floors ceilings etc.. are taped up with air tight tape. It's to stop heat escaping through drafhts.

An example of this is, get yourself 2 balloons. Blow them both up however before you do this, get a little pin and in one ballon prick 50 little holes in one. Now blow them up and watch one lose air atba fast rate. Well this is your heat escaping from your home. My hard earned money I pay for fuel is leaking heat out of every little hole, crack , window gaps etc.. it's in my best interest to seal these up.

I have a potential 100 air leaks through my sockets, light fittings, switch's in my home. Alot of air leaks. When the house is getting fully heated on a windy cold night, if one puts their hand over these, you can feel an air draft. For the sake of a few tubs of silicone, it would be nice to keep this heat in the home.

That's a rubbish analogy. The pressure differential is the thing causing the balloon to rapidly deflate. Unrelated to any heat loss through socket backboxes.
 
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More generally, unless one has an efficient heat-recovery system, it would seem that the advantages of making a house 'air tight' are nearly always going to be largely negated by the need for ventilation.
Yes, it's daft isn't it. One part of the building regs requires air tightness, and another part requires adding holes to deal with the problem that lack of ventilation causes.
 
Often a lot of air movement can be detected when loosening faceplates on or near outside walls.

This tends to be around metal boxes on dot and dab walls.

And on ashlar walls on loft conversions or rooms built into the sloping roof.
 
Often a lot of air movement can be detected when loosening faceplates on or near outside walls. This tends to be around metal boxes on dot and dab walls.
Are you implying that the outside walls themselves are not ''air-tight'? If air can move through the wall (in either direction) between the outside world and the interior of the building, what about rain etc.?

Kind Regards, John
 
Don't know, never thought about it all in great detail.
I can't say I really have, either - but if I removed a faceplate of an accessory and found 'wind' blowing out of the hole (something I've never experienced), I think I would worry about the integrity of the structure of the building.


Kind Regards, John
 
When I've noticed air movement/draughts behind sockets in say a loft conversion, I just assumed it was it was coming in from under the roof tiles - but 'not my problem' so there it ends with me!

In recent years, ashlar walls and other areas get very heavily insulated, with fewer gaps.

Been on a job where the place has had an air test which failed, and the main developer has tried to 'blame' us (unsuccessfully) for not sealing every hole round back boxes and that. This being about 7 years or so ago. Now that company use their own blokes to go around sealing up before the 2nd fix, using about 100 tubes of sealant.
 
When I've noticed air movement/draughts behind sockets in say a loft conversion, I just assumed it was it was coming in from under the roof tiles - but 'not my problem' so there it ends with me!
If it's a hollow wall whose cavity is in continuity with the roof space, then that's a possibility. However, you were talking about 'outside walls', which I assumed would usually be solid masonry (at least, the inside leaf, if a cavity wall).

Kind Regards, John
 
If it's a hollow wall whose cavity is in continuity with the roof space, then that's a possibility. However, you were talking about 'outside walls', which I assumed would usually be solid masonry (at least, the inside leaf, if a cavity wall).

Kind Regards, John

I would assume it's travelling through the voids behind dot and dab plasterboard, but where it gets in I couldn't say.

A lot of modern blockwork seems to be thrown up with gaps in the mortar, if that could contribute to it.
 
If it's a hollow wall whose cavity is in continuity with the roof space, then that's a possibility. However, you were talking about 'outside walls', which I assumed would usually be solid masonry (at least, the inside leaf, if a cavity wall).

Kind Regards, John

I would assume it's travelling through the voids behind dot and dab plasterboard, but where it gets in I couldn't say.

A lot of modern blockwork seems to be thrown up with gaps in the mortar, if that could contribute to it.
 
I would assume it's travelling through the voids behind dot and dab plasterboard, but where it gets in I couldn't say.
That's what I thought you meant - but, as you sort-of suggest, those voids should not be in continuity with the putside world.
A lot of modern blockwork seems to be thrown up with gaps in the mortar, if that could contribute to it.
Another possibility - but, again, one would hope that there would not be corresponding 'holes' in the outside leaf of the wall (most usually brick).

However, I think this is probably all getting a bit silly. Is it not possible for at least some of us to agree that, no matter what (very small), if any, 'air leaks' there may be around electrical accessories, in terms of heat loss from a house these fade into total insignificance in comparison with the more obvious, and much larger, mechanisms of heat loss?

Kind Regards, John
 
A lot of modern blockwork seems to be thrown up with gaps in the mortar, if that could contribute to it.
It's not just a modern phenomena. I remember dad telling me how he was looking at houses (before I was born, and that's over half a century ago) and before plastering & rendering he could clearly see daylight through the outside walls. I assume it would mostly be the perpendiculars, since the beds would mostly be continuous - it taking more work to leave gaps in the beds than to not.
 

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