Replacement Fan isolator switch wiring issue

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Hi, maybe someone can help me with this, I have replaced all of the sockets in my house with stainless versions and I have one thats confusing me, it is an existing fan isolator switch I wanted to replace with an AET Electrical 3-pole fan isolator stainless screwless faceplate, but on inspection of the back of the old and new switches the wiring terminals are different as per attached images. The fan also has a humidistat.
The new switch has 3 x L1 and 3 x Lcom terminals, whereas the old switch has 2 x L1, 2 x L2 and 2 x N
Can anyone tell me if the new switch is actually suitable and if so how I should wire it up?

Thanks
 

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Booch, can you show us the front of the 'new' switch along with the back of the same new switch.
I ask as Taylor is completely correct in what he has said, but I am wondering if you have a proper Fan switch with a strangely labeled back plate that makes it look (from behind) like a three gang switch rather than a single fan switch.

If you show us that it is a single fan switch then we can tell you the correct wiring.
SFK
 
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I see it as being:
The photo with the white switch is his original Fan switch (great photo btw) with the correct L, SW and N connections.
The right hand photo is his new Fan switch, but with labeling of 3x L(1) > L(com). (no mention of L, SL or N).
I bet to save costs the manufacturer has used the back plate off a 3 gang switch on the back of a Fan Switch,and not bother changing the labels.

But not 100% sure so wanted to see the front first before telling OP to get a real fan switch or how to wire it.

SFK
 
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Thanks guys for all the quick replies. Here are the fronts of the 2 switches, maybe I (or AET) have muddled up a fan iso backplate with another switch although I dont remember buying a 2 way light switch, I will need to dig out my original invoice to check
 

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Okay,
On your new Fan switch,
- the two contacts on the left, one above the other "marked L(Com) and L1" are for your L1-L1 wires from your old switch
- the two contacts in the middle , one above the other "marked L1 and L(Com)" are for your L2-L2 wires from your old switch
- the two contacts on the right, one above the other "marked L(Com) and L1" are for your N-N wires from your old switch

Basically you take the same wire from your old switch and put it in the same hole position.

ALSO make sure you put the ground wires into the ground contection on the new face plate. This is VERY important as it grounds the metal face plate.

SFK
 
What does the other side of the switch that has L1's and Lcom's on look like?

I don't mean the frontplate. If you flipped over the switch you phoptographed earlier does it have three separate switch modules or one? (Or are they 3 separate ones that are linked together?)
 
Sorry forgot to show the switch front as well as the faceplate, the faceplate came with, and does fit, the switch part and I also checked I never ordered any 2-way light switches. Taylor - I couldnt find that code SLFISBS on the AET website either although it is on Amazon as per your link.
 

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All fitted and working now, thanks SFK for detailed info and everyone else for their help.
 
Great. Sorry to have sent mixed message. The first pic you showed certainly looked like a 3way light switch.
 
Why has some idiot used PVC/PVC single browns for neutral?

Also, is the backbox earthed? It may be but it's hard to be certain from the photo.
 

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